St James's, Spanish Restaurant Guide

“Living up to the naturally high expectations”; this prime site within the Café Royal, off Piccadilly Circus, wins praise – albeit on limited feedback this year – for the “meticulous patisserie” you would hope for from Albert Adrià (who, back in the day, was pastry chef at his brother Ferran’s world-famous destination restaurant: El Bulli, long RIP).

“The best Spain has to offer in the UK” – Nieves Barragan’s “genius” dishes are “packed with so much flavour” at her and José Etura’s incredibly “buzzy and popular” destination, off Regent Street. “The tapas counter is one of London’s top places to eat (the only problem is getting a seat) to enjoy stunningly fresh fare, straight from the chef”. “Service is fantastic and the buzz in the room is palpable”: this is one of the vanishingly small number of restaurants ever to have been awarded a 5,5,5. Note: whereas the counter, bar, and revamped outdoor terrace are saved for walk-ins, you can book upstairs for El Asador dining room and also for parties up to 10 at the large ‘La Mesa’ table on the ground floor. Top Menu Tips – lots of dishes come highly recommended in reports: “the immaculate Suckling Pig always stands out”; “The Cuttlefish Pappardelle & Manchego Pesto is wonderful”; “Monkfish tempura is exceptional”; and the “Goat’s Cheese Ice Cream & Liquorice Sauce” also rates mention.

This “great little bistro” in Mayfair no longer excites as it did at launch 10 years ago (when former prime minister David Cameron and his wife Sam Cam were regulars). Fans reckon it’s “still a top dining option in Shepherd Market” thanks to its menu of sophisticated “comfort food”; but increasingly it “doesn’t quite live up to expectations” (“all a bit crowded and the food was just about OK”).

This quintet of tapas bars from the well-known Iberian food importer attracts most attention for its locations – in particular its “lively and popular” original bar at the entrance to Borough Market; and most recent addition: a “lovely riverside spot overlooking the Thames at Richmond”. Despite its renown – and some praise for its “small plates but big flavours” – ratings are held down by prices many reporters consider “high” for what’s widely seen as “pretty standard tapas fare”.

This “bustling” spot, tucked away in a Mayfair side street near Piccadilly and Green Park, is a “perennial favourite” (“great for a gossipy catch-up!”) on account of its “fun, welcoming” atmosphere and prices that are notably kind for the area. Over its three decades it has attracted a long list of swashbuckling guests, ranging from Johnny Depp to Fred Sirieix.

“Counter seats are the best” at the Hart Bros’ “magical slice of Spain” – a “joyful” and thriving homage to Barcelona’s famous Cal Pep, which since its 2007 launch has steadily appeared near the top of our annual diners’ poll as one of London’s most popular restaurant groups. Its branches have multiplied, but – to a miraculous extent – the formula has stayed the same. “At the bar, it’s fun to watch the talented staff who were clearly enjoying their jobs, meticulously preparing the outstanding dishes”: “brilliant small plates, with plenty of choice” and “packed with authentic flavours” (“particularly strong on fish and seafood”); plus “an excellent range of sherries” and wines. But, while it’s maintained “impressive consistency over many years”, it can feel “like a bar experience at restaurant prices” nowadays, and its ratings drifted south of their usual peaks this year. There’s also the odd tale of caution in reports: “I’ve been almost every year since it opened. It’s still great fun and pretty good, but the last three visits have fallen below the super-high quality of the past”. Top Menu Tips – “love the Croquetes; the Cos salad with anchovy and crispy pancetta; and perfectly unctuous Tortilla”.

“Way above average for a gallery” – “authentic, high-quality Spanish cuisine” from the Bermondsey-based tapas supremo “always impresses” at this august venue, which is highly commented-on nowadays. The “gracious” (“almost stately”) Royal Academy surroundings “add to the pleasure”, so “match lunch with an exhibition for a perfect day out” (although given the central location, it’s “worth coming even if you are not visiting for the art”). Top Tip – “you need to book if you want to sit in the lovely room with well-spaced tables, otherwise they may put you out in the corridor!”

2022 Review: Joining José Pizarro at the RA is this less-formal tapas bar from the star Spaniard. The RA’s food operations in recent years have always conformed to the low expectations of gallery catering generally, but our hunch is that José didn’t get the memo telling him that no great shakes are expected, and that actually it may be rather good...

Madrid-born Arian and Alberto Zandi added this new Mayfair venture to their portfolio (alongside Zuaya and Como Garden) in November 2021. On the plus side, results from the Spanish menu can be excellent. On the downside, the bill here can mount and feedback is sufficiently up-and-down to preclude a fully wholehearted endorsement.

“Uniquely fabulous” is how diners describe Brat-founder Tomos Parry’s Soho yearling: “an open-grill-dominated casual eatery” near the foot of Carnaby Street that its biggest fans hail as “an instant classic that’s perhaps the opening of the year”. The “refreshingly original menu – spider crab omelette and mutton chops anybody?” – “lives up to the hype”; there’s an “especially good wine list”; and the overall vibe is “trendy but not overly so” (“huge fun, it feels like being at a great party”). Drawbacks? “Upstairs can be a bit noisy when it gets busy” and the “low-key and charming” service can sometimes be “curiously erratic”. And it’s really “not cheap” or, if you prefer, “so expensive!” (but very arguably “that reflects the quality and creativity of the dishes”). Top Menu Tip – mixed views on the signature Anglesey lobster: “Giles Coren made it sound amazing!” but critics say “what apparently serves up to five is lovely, but we found it barely enough for two!”

With ‘croquetas at its core’, this small, December 2022 newcomer, south of Carnaby Street, promises to bring ‘Spanish bar culture with regional sensibilities to Soho’. Run by Brindisa, it’s a non-branded attempt at a funkier outlet for their Hispanic produce and wines. No survey feedback as yet, but in a March 2023 review, The Independent’s Lucy Thackray hailed a “cosy, convivial Spanish hangout” that’s “a potentially chemistry-crackling date place” – “the spelling may be gimmicky but the food is not”.