St James's, Greek Restaurant Guide

Hang with a “smart, interesting-looking set of diners” at Costas Spiladi’s luxurious Greek venture in St James’s – part of his international chain, whose 10 other branches include three in NYC, as well as outlets in Miami, Athens and Dubai. It aims to evoke the brilliant blue waters of the Med and showcases an “excellent” array of fish and seafood on glittering counters of ice, where you choose your catch and specify how it’s to be prepared. On the downside, service can be “variable” and it is – predictably – “very expensive”.

Across Piccadilly from The Ritz, this glorious-looking (and extremely pricey) newcomer – all high ceilings, marble and pale blue banquettes – rather jarringly markets itself as a ‘refined Greek taverna’; and is the London outpost of a Russian-owned, Dubai-based brand which also has outlets in Doha and Monte Carlo. The ‘refined taverna’ styling, though, does more faithfully capture the relatively homespun menu, overseen by British-Nigerian chef Izu Ani: this includes classics like taramasalata, spanakopita and moussaka alongside a more glam ice-counter of fish and seafood, where you select your choice and specify how you want it prepared. “Nice… but not cheap”, only go if your wallet doesn’t mind an exhausting work-out.

“Is it where the vulgar go to look at each other?” – Richard Caring wasn’t looking to please the good taste committee with his “far OTT” Mayfair scene, where staff clad in togas, winged statues and muralled nymphs overlooking the large dining room make it all a bit like a luxurious Mayfair production of ‘Carry on Cleo’. The menu is a romp through a hotchpotch of Med-inspired crudo, seafood dishes, pasta – even schnitzel! – and if you aren’t spending enough already, the menu encourages you to ‘elevate your dish with… a decadent addition’: meaning extra caviar or black truffle is available to sprinkle on all items. One fan recommends it for its romantic potential (“the ladies enjoy dining here”) but almost half of our feedback registers “disappointment”, so it would very much depend on the tastes of your dining companion…