St Mawes, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“The combination of informality, fantastic location, superb discrete service and excellent food makes this a winner” – Olga Polizzi’s flagship in St Mawes has established it as perhaps the most famous and stylish hotel in Cornwall, although it was a run-down mess when she bought it 27 years ago (she cheered herself up by watching episodes of Fawlty Towers!). The “lovely dining room is well served with top seafood” although it is fair to say the culinary level achieved does not quite match the “exceptional” setting.

“Such a beautiful place to dine with great views over the harbour” – this stylish coastal retreat (a Relais & Châteaux property) occupies a “stunning” position above the beach. “Service is smooth, friendly and typically Cornish and new chef Carla Jones [in post since late 2024] has steadied the ship” with cooking that’s uniformly enjoyed. Its ratings were undercut this year, though, by quibbles, even from fans – for example “good but overpriced”; or, “if there was a complaint, it’s that some dishes were overdone – for example fish is delivered from the quay 200 yards away fresh as a daisy – why then jazz it up in a strong sauce… otherwise a great dining experience”.

2023 Review: This “glorious spot” by the sea, close to the SW coastal path and with a front-conservatory to take advantage of sea views, was taken over by high-profile chef Michael Caines of Lympstone Manor in 2020. Quell hopes of any culinary fireworks, though – reports here didn’t hit the heights this year, with the experience too often “let down by chaotic service and pedestrian food”.

“The owners of The Hidden Hut (a real foodie destination just the other side of Portscatho Beach) have branched out into the pub business with the Standard” – an independent freehouse with a south-facing beer garden whose history stretches back to 1793. Inside, “a lovely, cosy dining area awaits you with a log fire”, as well as a “fairly limited” but “high quality” menu including “excellent” fresh fish. Okay, so it “doesn’t have the views of ‘the Hut’, but for a great pub lunch it’s recommended” – Simon Stallard, who took on the project with his partner Jemma Glass, being a “chef whose hand you can trust”.

A “fantastic small restaurant” – Falmouth’s first recipient of a Michelin Green Star, which it won in 2023, two years after opening, for its “hyper-local, impeccably sourced food” (the furthest farm they work with being just an hour and a half away). Dishes are “expertly cooked by chef-owner Hylton Espey”, who runs the operation with wife Petronella, and “the menu takes you on a journey across Cornwall and beyond”, whether you go for the five-course, £60 per person ‘Discovery’ lunch or seven-course, £85 per person ‘Journey’ supper.

2022 Review: A “fabulous location with stunning views of the Fal Estuary” remains the main draw to this smart quayside brasserie, though its “good, varied menu” is “well presented and precisely cooked” too. Getting a window seat is something of a challenge – as is getting a spot for breakfast and brunch, so think of booking ahead.