Strand, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Famous for being London’s top romantic dining spot with good reason” – this bewitching Covent Garden “haven” comes complete with an “exquisite” rear conservatory, with “a glass roof that opens in summer” and “the treat of a log fire in winter” – and “on the first floor you dine under a vibrant canopy of flowers”. By most accounts the European cuisine is “beautifully presented and tastes as good as it looks” too, although a slight slip in its ratings of late supports those who feel that “it’s more hit and miss since the pandemic”. No change in its “wonderful wine selection” however: “a surprisingly eclectic list of wines, alongside the bonus of an extensive cognac offering (and Armagnac dating back 70 years!”). “A must for a special celebration”.

“Chic and cosy” Covent Garden townhouse with “very friendly staff” and a “nice short menu” of accomplished comfort food. “The set lunch” and early-evening menu is “very welcome for pre-theatre dining” – and means “you can afford to go regularly”. Like its Shepherd Market sibling Kitty Fisher’s, it takes its name from a historic courtesan with local connections.

“Nothing like the classic Ivy of yesteryear” – the Theatreland icon used by Richard Caring as the pattern for his hugely lucrative knock-off chain gave a yet-more indifferent impression this year. That “it is not what it was” is ancient news, although there are still some devoted fans who declare it “a favourite”, citing its “always buzzing atmosphere” in particular and who still laud “delicious” posh-brasserie fare. “Once an icon, now a tourist trap” is now a more dominant theme in reports though, with reporters increasingly apt to find it “a disappointing flagship” that’s “no better than its suburban chain branches” with “low-end food and sloppy service”.

Abu Dhabi royal Sheikh Tahnoon bin Zayed al-Nahyan was – as of mid 2025 – rumoured to be on the verge of buying a £1 billion stake in Richard Caring’s restaurant empire, of which this famous brasserie chain is the crown jewel. Presumably, he’s more interested in ‘rolling out’ the brand in The Gulf and beyond rather than dropping by for a Salmon Fishcake and ‘Ivy Chocolate Bombe’, but if he’d asked the opinion of our annual diners’ poll, we’re not sure that he’d sign on the dotted line. “How can a restaurant with this heritage produce such uninspired, tick-box food?” is a question merited by its poor ratings, ditto what explains the “very slow and disinterested service”? The answer may be that “you don’t come here for the food, obviously” but for the “gorgeous” interior design and “picturesque” locations that continue to underpin their appeal. Let’s hope for the Sheikh’s sake that the middle classes of the Arab World are as undiscerning as those from the UK!

2024 Review: “Pre or post-theatre, very much a favourite over many years” – this elegant seafood bar was added adjacent to the main restaurant fifteen years ago, and its more laid-back style means it’s tailor-made for a luxurious bite and glass of fizz. That said, it’s become “quite pricey” over time, and doesn’t have quite the dazzling golden glow of yesteryear.

This “calm and very comfortable” hotel mezzanine on the edge of Covent Garden is a useful place to know about in a busy area – providing a “very soothing experience, with fairly traditional cooking, good-quality ingredients and generally good service”. It also serves an “amazing Charlie and the Chocolate Factory afternoon tea”, in which “both savoury and sweet elements are first class”. Top Tip – “fully gluten- and lactose-free menu available”.

Irish Wexford Tomahawk… Hereford Fillet Chateaubriand… Argentinian Ribeye… USDA prime fillet – the high quality of the steaks are a point of pride for Simon Thomas who owns London’s biggest and busiest casino, where the restaurant occupies an interesting space converted from the old circle of the former Hippodrome Theatre. NB under 25s must have ID. Top Tip – superb pre-theatre deal at £24 for two courses.

As a “cosy choice for a romantic breakfast”, this big, famous Soho landmark wins the odd tip. What’s more striking, though, is how somewhere with a gorgeous Champagne bar and unbeatable heritage (from 1867) can – under Soho House, who mostly run it as a hotel – have sunk into such stupefying obscurity and mediocrity.

“Some tables afford a view of the Thames, while there is some real dining theatre” at the Savoy’s elegant dining room, whose history in the last 20 years has seen many re-treads under differing names (most recently Kaspar’s). Now back under its old moniker but run by Gordon Ramsay, it divides opinion, with some reporters feeling the “very solid” fish and seafood cooking is let down by a space “very much like a hotel breakfast room”, while others see a “very nice room” let down by “unimaginative food at fancy prices”… so a consensus of sorts! For a traditional, grand family meal or business – including breakfast – it has its fans; to others it’s just too uneventful at the five-star prices.

“A delightful setting, atop wonderful art and with seriously good food” – that’s the elevator pitch for this latest incarnation of the Royal Portrait Gallery’s top-floor dining room, taken over by star Irish chef, Richard Corrigan in 2023. Of course, it helps that it enjoys “utterly fabulous” viewpoints over Trafalgar Square from the NPG’s roof (“magnificent if you are fortunate enough to get a window table”) but its high standards “confound the belief that restaurants attached to cultural venues are always disappointing”; and are similarly way above the lazy standards of a typical ‘room with a view’. True, service can be “a bit intermittent”, but is for the most part highly rated for its “charming” approach, and delivers “predominantly British cuisine” (with some focus on “fresh fish”) that’s “precise and imaginative”. “Some soft furnishings or acoustic devices to help reduce the noise of happy diners!” would please some guests, but most reports applaud the “beautiful” interior. But there is a bit of a catch! While acknowledging all of the huge number of plusses, many enthusiastic reports are, even so, delivered slightly through gritted teeth due to the “sky-high” prices. (“There’s no doubting that Richard Corrigan has brought a touch of excitement and flair to the gallery. But at a price. Yes, the menu is imaginative, the cooking sound and the service as professional as you would expect. But the bill proved shockingly high for lunch with a modest drink.”)

“A hidden gem that’s so worth a visit, especially if you want to stay late” – this ‘boutique basement wine bar & kitchen’ in the heart of Soho was founded by not one but two master sommeliers, Gearoid Devaney & Xavier Rousset (originally as an industry insider club called ‘Trade’). The food is simple (pizzas and sharing boards) but the cocktails are excellent and there’s an exceptional selection of by-the-glass vintage wines.

“This small, unassuming restaurant is a favourite haunt” in Soho, featuring “imaginative, unfussy and tasty food”, with “attentive service in a buzzy environment”. Founders Cameron Emirali & Luke Wilson are “lovely people” who “get everything right”, so “the ambience is fun, with everyone enjoying themselves”. Top Tip – “it’s worth sharing plates to get twice as much pleasure for the same price”.

“A top spot for a long, slow meal in Soho” – this “small but perfectly formed” first-floor dining room looks down onto the street through the ‘Tricolore’ flags and Union Jacks that signpost this “old favourite” pub. “You fight your way through the pub entrance, past the frenetic, cosy downstairs bar, but once you’re up the stairs to this petit space, your shoulders relax” as it has a timeless, “charming” quality. Neil Borthwick (aka Mr Angela Hartnett) is the latest in a line of top chefs who have defied the modest expectations of this “compact” space, delivering “the kind of simple, intelligent, well-thought-out food you always want to eat with gusto, rather than take pictures of”. “The staff are friendly and helpful without being intrusive and the atmosphere is relaxed and comforting (it’s like being wrapped in a big fluffy blanket and fed your favourite ‘get well’ soup!”). Top Menu Tips – “the aligot, the steak frites, the crispy pig’s head, all utterly delicious, consistent and with huge bursts of full-on flavour”; and “the madelaines with orange curd are awesome!”

“Tiny”, “cheek-by-jowl” Soho natural wine bar which excels for “delicious small plates of full-flavoured and balanced cooking”, plus “super-knowledgeable staff who have actually met the wine producers of the unusual wines they sell”. It’s still going strong after 15 years: foodwise, a typical meal might run: “bread; pickles; aubergine fritters; squash with cheese and seeds; lamb chop with beans; cheese and frangipane”; vinously: “started with sparkling red, moved on to a white from Puglia (who knew) and finished with a lovely rosé”.

“Quiet culinary bravura paired with both genuine respect for food and wonderful staff, and all served in one of prettiest rooms in London” maintains a very high level of popularity for renowned Aussie chef, Skye Gyngell’s “very elegant” chamber – a big, airy, light-filled space in the distinguished surroundings of Somerset House, that “always brings a sense of occasion”. Often tipped for romance, there’s just one complaint – “it was all fine… except for the prices!”. Top Tip – “their scratch supper menu is one of the great bargains of all time… as well as being delicious!”

Part of the Gladwin Bros’ well-known ‘Local & Wild’ group, this Soho venue is focused on “sound cooking using ingredients with a known provenance” – many of them from the family estate in Sussex (hence the name). That said, the lukewarm performance here fails to match that of its better-established West London stablemates, the Shed in Notting Hill and Rabbit in Chelsea. But maybe a summer 2025 refit is about to change all that: it’s seen the introduction of a chef’s table, a central wood-fired kitchen grill, and a new bar.

“It’s always a pleasure to return” to this “dignified but unstuffy favourite” with the “lovely atmosphere of old Soho” – nowadays part of Dan Keeling & Mark Andrew’s all-conquering little clan, but for many decades previously adored as ‘The Gay Hussar’ (long RIP: famously a parlour of political and literary intrigues). “An excellent choice for lovers of the grape”, the “ridiculously comprehensive” wine list “will blow your mind!” But “the food is pretty good too” (“especially if you order the chicken with morels and vin jaune!”): “straightforward, largely Gallic dishes” which are served in the “tight, buzzy and intimate space” which takes in two floors of the building (and there is also “a nice private room for a party upstairs”). “The smaller space means the service is better and friendlier than its siblings”: the team is “helpful” and "super-knowledgeable" – “the only problem is deciding what to drink!”. It’s also “a pity that it’s so hard to book a table at a sensible time…”. Top Top – “the set menu lunch is unbeatable value”.

“A Soho Classic”. “Jeremy Lee’s cooking is worth crossing town for” – “traditional modern British/Scottish cuisine with seasonal flare” – and he has, over the last dozen years, helped the Hart Bros reestablish this “up-market, white-tablecloth English landmark” as a magnet for a “totally reliable and stylish” occasion, particularly a “romantic” one. It helps that the “lovely staff” help create a “happy” and unforced atmosphere and that the successful private members’ club on the upper floors of the building add to the address’s allure as a destination for those in-the-know. The worst anyone says? “It all seemed a bit safe”. Top Menu Tips – “the smoked eel sandwich starter is a taste experience no serious foodie should miss”; and “the daily pie never disappoints”.

2023 Review: The “beautiful terrace” with its “attentive staff” at this very central hotel makes for an oasis of calm close to busy Oxford Street. Named in reference to Virginia Woolf, the queen bee of the Bloomsbury set, it has a “fun atmosphere”, and the heating and retractable roof make it ideal for afternoon tea throughout the year.