Surrey, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This smart gastroboozer is “a jolly nice place to go, whether à deux, or as a large group”; its “outstanding” British menu sets the local “benchmark for fish ’n’ chips” and “the fact that it is always busy says it all (even we, as regulars, who always book way in advance, sometimes cannot get our first-choice table!”).

“Set in a delightful village” in the Surrey Hills, this 17th-century red-brick cottage now houses a “delightful restaurant” where the “mild Moroccan influence on modern British food makes for a superb dining experience” (“I live in London and go specially”). “The staff cannot do enough to make your meal enjoyable – and that includes the charming owner”, Jack Forrest Foster.

The Rarebreed Dining Group’s boozer is far from your regular beast: the in-house butchery and smokery turns out “excellent” meaty cuts including chateaubriand, t-bone or sous-vide sirloin; in August they also run an outdoor cinema if you’d like some celluloid after your steak.

From a growing popular chain of ‘no membership’ clubs, this comfortable venue has a bar, lounge, orangery and terrace, along with “fun” all-weather igloos on the roof, in which to graze on a pretty standard all-day menu of Italian-inspired dishes, including pizza and pasta. Not a culinary fave rave, but handy for many occasions.

“Steve Drake is at the top of his game” and “continues to turn out beautifully prepared dishes, visit after visit” according to practically all reports on this much commented-on fixture: a “smart destination suited to a special occasion” in the centre of “lucky Dorking”. There’s “a very high level of professionalism in both kitchen and front-of-house” and the result is “a brilliantly devised, modulated and presented menu” full of “inventive and original flavours”; together with “an excellent choice of wines”. One caveat, though – “check your bank balance before booking!”

“The view is unbeatable” (and what it overlooks is incorporated into the name) of this highly rated link in Richard Caring’s national chain; as for the rest, you can expect the usual “pretty” decor and a “decent menu selection” (“including healthy choices that don’t feel like a sacrifice”); “it isn’t cheap though, so save it for an occasion”.

The second link in the growing Brucan Pubs group, set up by James Lyon Shaw and Jamie Dobbin, who met during their days at the famous Ivy. By all accounts the three-year-old venture is “surprisingly good for a somewhat unprepossessing area”, and with “good-value set menus” to boot. Top Menu Tip – “in my experience the best dishes are the slow-cooked ones”.

“A great addition to the local Oxshott/Cobham area” – this smartly converted pub in the heart of the plush commuter belt from chef Matt Larcombe and front-of-house Simon King is universally applauded for standards that are a cut above in all respects. But even fans note that “while superb, it’s definitely on the pricey side”, to the extent some consider it “expensive for what it is”. Top Menu Tip – “good and varied wine list”, with one or two trophy vintages (at well over £1,000 per bottle).

This “great family pub” – “aka The Inn on the Green, part of the small Grumpy Mole chain” – attracts a fair number of reports and “is a delightful spot overlooking the Surrey countryside”, with a “relaxed atmosphere” and a “tempting menu” that ticks most boxes. “The only issue is that you have to book a long time in advance for Sunday lunch”.

Food TV staple José Pizarro’s first outfit outside the capital – and first gastroboozer (with rooms) – is set in “a not-completely-obvious location” in the Surrey ‘burbs. Reviews were slightly muted this year: while most praised the “great modern Spanish food” (including “fabulous tapas”), others noted a lack of atmosphere (“wouldn’t be hard to make it feel a bit more intimate”).

“Fairy lights, greenery and charming decor create a warm and cosy atmosphere” at this still-expanding group, which is most popular as a “reliable and friendly brunch option”. Its Med-inspired tapas is typically rated somewhere between “tasty” and “nothing special” and scores overall are dragged well down by those experiencing “chaotic service” and “food that doesn’t live up to the pretty dining room”.

The intimate, seven-table dining room at this grand manor-house hotel features a tapestried wall and spectacular Tudor fireplace, making it an ideal showcase for ambitious and refined classical meals from chef Alex Payne, who grew up a mile away in Egham and trained under Heston Blumenthal and Gordon Ramsay. The hotel also serves smart afternoon teas in the Anne Boleyn drawing room and relaxed meals in the Estate Grill, with an impressive vaulted ceiling.

“An amazing new dining room! The experience from start to finish is personal, thought provoking and the cooking is inspired. a true destination!” – so say fans of the revamp of the “well appointed” flagship dining room at this Dorchester Collection property, where a new contemporary look has brought the decor much more into line with the quality of chef Adam Smith’s cuisine. Reports acclaim both its “exceptional food and dining experience on a consistent basis”. You choose from a five-course menu for £145 per person.

Ex-Core chef Steven Ellis & pastry-chef wife Ami’s “temple-of-gastronomy-wolf in a comfy-pub-sheep’s clothing” launched two years back and it has a particular focus on local game. The “highly distinctive and skilfully crafted cuisine” (with “venison to the fore”) plus “attentive and courteous service” place it “at the top gastropub level”. NB – while “parking is potentially tricky, one could enjoy a delightful walk in Windsor Great Park before or after a meal here”.

“Great views of the river” near Teddington Lock undoubtedly elevate a visit to this “welcoming” brasserie and jazz bar; the food also seems to be on an even keel of late, with reports of “well-cooked and enjoyable” dishes (including a “fantastic afternoon tea”) that can seem “surprisingly good given the slightly rickety/plasticky interior”. Best in summer, when you can make the most of the riverside terrace.

“Steve Smith hits all the right notes” in this opulent dining room: “a real treat that’s expensive but worth it”. “While the hotel may feel a bit big and corporate, The Latymer just feels special. From the moment you walk in, to the time you leave. Each course is craft-fully mapped out with little cards explaining what it is and where it originated from”. On all accounts this year, its six-course menu – for which you should allow three hours – delivers an “outstanding” experience for £175 per person.

“How nice to have a decent restaurant to round off your visit to the RHS gardens”, with a “short menu of good-quality food” in “attractive surroundings”. Wisley can get enormously busy, though, and service can struggle to cope with the sheer numbers.

“Definitely on my list of places to eat” – with its “changing menu and great food”, Sam and Alex Berry’s “noisy” operation is a real favourite with locals, including the business set; the ambitious couple’s mini-empire also includes Surbiton restaurants Cento Uno, No. 97 and The Hideaway, plus gin bar/distillery The Good Life, and (most recently) crowdfunded newbie Bone Idyll Gin School, which launched on Kingston’s riverside in September 2022.