THIRSK Restaurant Guide

An “original ambience” contributes to the charm of this eccentrically decorated hotel-restaurant, bedecked in grandfather clocks, chandeliers, tubas and drums – and part of the 18th-century Crab Manor, where the quirky décor continues in five globe-trotting bedrooms. “Tasty” fish is the specialism, but there was also praise this year for the “nice game”. Service can still occasionally lag – “maybe short staffed”? In Summer 2024, they added a sun-trapped terrace, further amplifying the “nice surroundings”.

“Rock on Tommy” say fans of the Banks family’s famous destination out on the edge of the North York Moors near their 160-acre farm, which came to prominence in 2012 when Tommy Banks became the youngest chef in the UK ever to have won a Michelin star. Nowadays the kitchen is under the immediate stewardship of Alice Power, who has been in the kitchen since 2021 and took over in February 2024 as head chef here. At £175 per person in the evenings, it serves a “superb tasting menu” that’s “plate-lickingly good”: “full of flavour and creativity and beautifully plated”. That’s the majority view in any case, including a number of regulars who “adore eating here” and some of whom declare it their best meal of the year. But ratings were nearly dragged down by a minority for whom the experience is “over-engineered and overpriced” (“we had been looking forward to this and we are no strangers to tasting menus having eaten this year at Gravetye, Lympstone, Gidleigh, Whitebrook and Morston Hall; but, to our surprise many dishes were unbalanced with too many ingredients either overpowering a dish or leading to a clash of flavours. Service was, however, friendly and informal from delightful and knowledgeable staff”).

On a small, rural industrial estate – within a unit dedicated to the making of top-quality sauces and stocks – this industrially located chef’s table makes an unusual venue for one of the better meals in the country. Over five hours, you experience a 14-course tasting menu with the chefs on hand to explain the sourcing and techniques used at each stage. Feedback is not vast, but continues to rate it as “exceptional all-round”.

Paul & Liz Jackson took on this converted pub – nowadays a restaurant with rooms – in 2012 and it continues to win strong feedback in our survey. One reporter mused whether the previously noted Asian inspirations “have been toned down somewhat”, but overall the food is “excellent” alongside “very attentive and precise service”.

“The views are stunning of the ruins of Byland abbey across the road” at this “delightful location” and Tommy Banks and family are “to be congratulated for rescuing the Abbey Inn and transforming it into a cosy thriving pub and restaurant”: after one short year, it is one of the top-20 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll. “It may serve pub classics, but they are done very well, with quality ingredients and presentation” and most reports acclaim “a fantastic renovation and a great reinvention”. Where disappointments occur, it’s “perhaps because expectations were too high” – at the end of the day this is a “popular and crowded” gastropub, and the odd foodie finds the menu a little “limited”. Most reports, though, are upbeat: “staff are very personable and knowledgeable” and the general reaction is that “from all the PR we just expected to encounter pub grub to a very high standard. And we did… but with a subtle Tommy Banks twist”. Top Menu Tip – “The Sunday Roast is very good, the addition of tasty pulled beef in the Yorkshire Pudding (or pulled pork for my partner) was a great idea”; “the Herdwick lamb shoulder main and artichoke sticky toffee pudding are highlights”.

“Great pub food and proper Yorkshire hospitality” are the defining features of Rob & Gill Thompson’s whitewashed inn, a fixture in the village for almost four centuries. “Everything is a big cut above the average – highly recommended”.

An outpost of the famous tearoom chain that’s “great for brunch” as ever (afternoon tea and substantial mains also being on the agenda) and where – once you get past the queues – time itself seems to rewind, coaxed backwards by the “very professional staff”. “Prices have risen a lot” over the years “but this place will always feel like a treat!” – indeed it’s “a Yorkshire legend!” (even if this branch is not the most epic of the chain).

2021 Review: “Splendid cafe/restaurant in a charming building overlooking Helmsley's picturesque stream that’s on another plane altogether from Helmsley’s other establishments”. Sibling to the York original it serves “delicious, wholesome café food”: “the selection, especially from the specials board, is always interesting, and uses lots of local seasonal ingredients”.

2021 Review: This extended fifteenth-century inn (nowadays with nearly fifty bedrooms) sits at the heart of this very attractive market town. Its Gallery Restaurant (named for its dual purpose during the day as an art gallery) has quite a reputation, and – despite sustained gripes over the years that it’s rather pricey – all reports rate it good or better.

“We were sad when the Rattle Owl closed in York, but delighted when the chef and front-of-house team opened this venue in Helmsley” – Tom Heywood & Laurissa Cook opened this small venue with just six tables fed by an open kitchen with a strong emphasis on “using as much local produce as possible and minimal wastage”. There’s a four-course tasting menu for £55 per person or an eight-course option for £95 per person, both providing cooking that’s somewhat “different from the usual”. In particular “the drinks pairings are superb”, and incorporate some “lovely, well-chosen wines”.

“Glad to see this back. Was there a fire?” – Andrew Pern’s “simply stunning” 14th-century thatched pub is going from strength to strength – “as good or even better than it was before the terrible blaze” that struck it in 2021. “The wonderful ambience in the bar miraculously seems exactly the same as before: relaxed, calming and overseen by experienced, personable staff” who “make you feel instantly at home” and for whom “nothing is too much trouble”. “You can choose from several menus which are all imaginative and really special”: some reporters‘ best meals of the year, and for one fan: “one of the best meals I have ever had!”

Jacquie Pern’s North Yorks village hotel is “just lovely in every way” according to fans – an old blacksmith’s, village shop and barn that once stood here having made way for very “comfortable bedrooms and lounges, gardens and a village duck pond”. Now under chef Vincenzo Raffone, the venue produces “professionally presented cooking using many local ingredients”; it’s also a great spot for a “supremely relaxing and enjoyable afternoon tea”.

“Oozing luxury (as it should do at this price!), but a tremendous experience, especially if you stay over” – Shaun Rankin wins exemplary feedback for this “stunning” and stately venue. The centrepiece of the experience is a “great taster menu” running to 14 dishes for £160 per person, produced with “real class and taste”.

2023 Review: “Whilst walking in the area, dropped in for lunch without prior knowledge – what a gem!". Kerry & Martel Smith’s rustic gastropub by the River Ouse, is consistently well rated. “The ambience and friendly welcome make it immediately a winner and that’s cemented with the tremendous cuisine”.

2023 Review: “A superb find” in North Yorkshire, the former Inn at Hawnby has been smartly refurbed by Coastal & Country Inns as a luxury pub/restaurant with rooms. Meals are “well presented and taste superb”, while “nothing is too much trouble” for the friendly staff.

Ruth Hansom’s name has regularly cropped up in a series of launches in London in recent years, and till last year she was head chef at nearby luxury hotel, Swinton Park. Here the Darlington-born chef launched in 2024 under her own name, with a 16-seat venue occupying a stylishly refurbished venue on the market place of a picturesque North Yorks town. You can dip your toe in the water from the small plates menu or go for a more ambitious seven-course tasting menu at £75 per head. No reports as yet, but this should be one to watch.