Taplow, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

Heston’s take on the gastroboozer – a former hunting lodge that the celebrity chef took over in 2004, and is just a short waddle from his more famous and fancier Fat Duck. What it offers is “not really pub food per se”, but rather “reinterpretations of classic dishes” that delve into Britain’s gastronomic history, from ‘Quaking Pudding’, to their signature soft-yolk Scotch egg. The results are still relatively down-to-earth, “supremely tasty” and “remain great value”.

Simon & Deborah Bonwick took over this well-known pub (which boasts a cosy, traditional interior and huge garden) in mid 2025, and its website now dubs it as ‘A cosy pipe and slippers kind of pub’ that’s ‘A Gastronomic Chapel amongst the Culinary Cathedrals here in Bray-on-Thames’. He has been and continues to be involved with a number of other pubs in the Henley / Marlow area, and here aims for ‘highly executed seasonal French cuisine’, with dishes such as ‘Market Fish “Like When in Paris”; and ‘Aged Highland Beef fillet “A La Ficelle” with a Rather Nice Sauce’. Reports please!

“Very much a local gem” – “Dom Chapman’s pub/restaurant remains a most attractive and well-run establishment”, with a “cosy and inviting interior”, “friendly staff” and a “great-value set menu if you want to save some money as well”. Ratings have slipped a notch on reports of some “pedestrian and inconsistent” dishes, but the broader message is of a “great local”.

Abu Dhabi royal Sheikh Tahnoon bin Zayed al-Nahyan was – as of mid 2025 – rumoured to be on the verge of buying a £1 billion stake in Richard Caring’s restaurant empire, of which this famous brasserie chain is the crown jewel. Presumably, he’s more interested in ‘rolling out’ the brand in The Gulf and beyond rather than dropping by for a Salmon Fishcake and ‘Ivy Chocolate Bombe’, but if he’d asked the opinion of our annual diners’ poll, we’re not sure that he’d sign on the dotted line. “How can a restaurant with this heritage produce such uninspired, tick-box food?” is a question merited by its poor ratings, ditto what explains the “very slow and disinterested service”? The answer may be that “you don’t come here for the food, obviously” but for the “gorgeous” interior design and “picturesque” locations that continue to underpin their appeal. Let’s hope for the Sheikh’s sake that the middle classes of the Arab World are as undiscerning as those from the UK!