Tower Hill, French Restaurant Guide

Evens Lopez has been at the stoves since June 2022 at this five-star hotel near the Tower of London. Run from afar by Anne-Sophie Pic – France’s most decorated female chef – it has held two Michelin stars for many years, yet has a fairly low profile largely due to its City-fringe location, in the monumental former HQ of the Port of London Authority (which, apparently, also served as the venue for the inaugural meeting of the United Nations General Assembly in 1946!). A fair number in our annual diners poll who do make the trip say the dining room is a “wonderful” environment with modern French cuisine that’s “just superb”, from a selection of menus starting at £145 per person. What’s encouraging is that criticism of the place is most notable by its absence.

“A City Institution!” – Looking down onto Leadenhall Market from the eves of the old Victorian structure (which it has inhabited since the 1980s), this traditional brasserie is an excellent all-rounder by the standards of Square Mile lunch spots. The classic French fare is not going to distract from your lunch, but prices are sufficiently reasonable as to make this a bill that can be paid, if necessary, from your ‘personal account’.

“A table on the terrace with the beautiful view of Tower Bridge is a fabulous experience” at this veteran riverside restaurant – one of the late Sir Terence Conran’s restaurant and design masterpieces when it opened as part of his ‘gastrodome’ development in 1991. It’s fallen into obscurity since the days when the Blairs entertained the Clintons here, but a jump in ratings this year, backed up by reports of “improved” and “surprisingly good” meals, suggests that – just possibly – it’s starting to get its mojo back after years of mediocrity in the D&D London stable. On the menu: a wide array of modern French dishes with plenty of steak and seafood, all backed up by a broad, high-quality wine list.

2021 Review: “Interesting and very edible food in ‘tapas mode’”, at “very reasonable prices”, is on offer at this contemporary Franco-Hispanic bistro in Borough Market. “Charming service” from “efficient and friendly staff” adds to its attractions – along with “plenty of outdoor tables” for summer scoffing.

“Amazing fine dining with Korean flavours running through each dish creates a real joy for the taste buds” at Woongchul Park & Bomee Ki’s passion project in a street in the shadow of The Shard. For foodies, it’s a must-visit, with a “restrained, unshowy and a pleasing menu” mixing classic French culinary techniques with inspirations from their home country; and all “at a reasonable price for this level of cooking and quality of ingredients”. Quality wines come from Keeling Andrew (associated with Noble Rot) although “more cheaper labels might encourage the topers amongst us to a bigger spend”. Service is “amazing”; and the neutral, 28-cover space is super-tasteful (but maybe not one for thrill seekers).

“Tap the ‘Press for Champagne’ button, add a little caviar tasting plate to the low-level lighting and small booth seating, and you have an ideal formula for a romantic dinner!” or, indeed, for a casual business tête-a-tête at Leonid Shutov’s willfully decadent retro-diners, styled in a kind of Art Deco steampunk. Both at the Soho original and in the newer City spin-off that occupies a floor of “The Cheesegrater”, they provide “an amazing setting”; and “somehow the totally OTT gaudiness of the place makes the overall experience a genuinely fun one”. Fans also say “the Beef Wellington is really very good” and approve of its other luxurious comfort food like Lobster Mac ’n’ Cheese, Chateaubriand for One, or Salmon en Croute. “It’s not cheap mind you” and harsher critics say the food “just doesn’t cut it” (“the novelty of the fun Champagne button sadly wears off when the dishes arrive; and while the bling and the booths create an atmosphere of unrestrained wealth, I prefer restaurants where food is the prime objective”).