Umberleigh, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

A meal “never fails to please” – “there’s always something delicious and different on the menu” – at this small spa-hotel in a Georgian manor house on a hillside in north Devon. The long-term contribution of Richie Herkes is key to its success – he joined as head chef in 2003, assumed the dual role of general manager eight years later, and is behind the “great menu (with particularly good fish)” – which is notably good value for cooking of this quality, at £55.50 for 3 courses. Top Tip – “don’t skip canapes before a meal in the lounge with a log fire in winter”.