Waddington, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“Everything you could wish for in a romantic weekend get-away” – this “special”, remote inn set in the Ribble Valley occupies a “memorable location”, “nestled alongside the River Hodder”, and itself “full of character” (if you stay, each of the “beautifully appointed rooms is decorated to a high standard, each with a peat fire for those colder winter visits”). The menu overseen by chef Jamie Cadman (who cooked for Queen Elizabeth II when she popped in to celebrate her 80th) is more that of a superior pub than of a restaurant, with dishes like Potted Duck Terrine and Shoulder of Burholme Lamb rubbing shoulders with Fish Pie, Fish ’n’ Chips and Steak. The wine list is excellent, as you’d expect for a site that also hosts a vintners. This year’s worst report? – “the cooking is very competently executed using the freshest of ingredients although the menu changes little”.

“Nigel Howarth is back to his best”, cooking “superb food” at this country inn (“don’t confuse it for a pub, it’s an excellent proper restaurant”) since coming out of retirement three years ago (he made his name as chef-patron for 30+ years at the nearby Ribble Valley culinary heavyweight, Northcote). He certainly hasn’t lost his touch, with one reporter saying he “preferred this to Northcote”; another asked “How has this not been awarded a Michelin star?”. Still a mover-and-shaker in gastronomic circles, Nigel hosted the week-long Fusion 2 festival of prominent chefs last autumn – one of whom was his son Kirk Howarth, of London’s vegan sensation Plates.