Watford, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Well worth a visit” – this “sympathetically restored” Mayfair hotel is originally Victorian (from the 1850s), although the wood panelling and square cornices of this basement dining room owe their looks to the 1930s. It continues to perform extremely consistently under chef Sofian Mstefi, who provides a seven-course menu for £122 per person (and there’s also a five-course option for £85 per person served Tuesday-Friday). We received nothing but all-round praise this year, with it winning nominations as both a business and romantic venue; and with many reporters enjoying their best meals of the year here.

Something of an unexpected find on the Hammersmith Road – part of the Victorian former premises of St Paul’s Boys School were converted into a hotel some years ago and incorporate this smart dining room looking onto a small park. A variety of relatively affordable menus – Sunday Lunch, Afternoon Tea, and, more recently, a steak and whisky pairing – make it a flexible venue, particularly suited to a family occasion.

“The culinary jewel in Chiswick’s crown” – this cousin to Chez Bruce “located in a side street off Chiswick High Road” is many diners’ idea of the “perfect neighbourhood restaurant”. Having “survived the enlarging of the space” and a “change of staff a couple of years ago, things have now completely settled in as has chef Greg Wellman”; and its performance this year in our annual diners’ poll was incredibly consistent. The modern French cuisine “is a bit cheffier and more refined than before”, with “lots of interesting Asian/Japanese touches”: “interesting, but not too cutting edge” and “most importantly full of flavour”. There’s also a “fascinating” wine list to match (“the commitment to wine, as opposed to just seeing it as a profit centre, is noteworthy” with “an outstanding sommelier who will suggest perfect accompaniment for the dishes but also provide answers to far-fetched requests!”). “It’s all combined with seamlessly efficient service… not as easy to do as they make it look, I suspect!”. “Sit outside on a warm day”. Top Menu Tips – “excellent pasta/ravioli plates add to excellent versions of more classic dishes, and a recent rabbit terrine was world class”.

“A classic, inspired menu is served in a lovely dining room on Old Amersham’s beautiful high street and supported by a great wine list” at Laurie & Jacqueline Gear’s 16th-century converted cottage. It waited almost 17 years for its Michelin star – having been founded in 2002 and winning the accolade in 2019 – and cynics say it’s “consistently good even after the award!” delivering “fantastic food, year after year”. “Prices are reasonable for the quality with dishes embellished with flair and complemented by the polite and engaged staff”. Many best meals of the last 12 months are reported here, and one reporter thought it “as enjoyable as any restaurant we have tried in the past three or four years”. It’s one of the top-50 most commented-on destinations outside London in our annual diners’ poll.

“They know what they are doing” at this comfortable hotel brasserie, well-located with a covered terrace on Marylebone Lane. Even its harshest critic – who finds the menu “pretty standard if uninteresting” – says that it suits “a functional business lunch”. But most reports are more upbeat – “there’s nothing to ‘frighten the horses’ but what they do, they do well. A place to come and please everyone and be able to have a proper conversation. Hooray!”

“If it was good enough for Queen Elizabeth II, it’s good enough for the rest of us!” – Gavin Rankin’s “very civilised, old school” brasserie in a cute Mayfair mews has a “lovely old-fashioned vibe” (and was one of the few restaurants in the UK in which the late Queen ever ate out). “Peaceful and very enjoyable”, it’s one of those rare dining rooms where jacket and tie are still the norm (although the dress code is an unwritten one). Staff are “utterly professional” and “predictably discreet”. “Start an evening with cocktails at the bar (next to the restaurant)” and then move next door for “classic French cuisine” that’s “lovely” but won‘t scare the horses. Top Tip – “the counter bar is also a great spot in which to have a posh fish finger sandwich!”

This “long-time favourite gastropub near Richmond Park” in East Sheen has been owned by TV chef Paul Merrett for more than 15 years, and serves “great food and wine”, including in the spacious rear conservatory and garden. “Never had a bad meal here”, agree regulars – many of whom meet up in the bar for a “pre-Twickenham lunch”.

“Richard Corrigan’s grown-up Mayfair flagship”, just off Park Lane, is a favourite spot for enjoying top-quality British Isles cuisine, where the emphasis is on the best produce be it ‘furred, foraged, finned or feathered’. Typical feedback applauds dishes such as “brilliant ox cheek” or “a great fish selection prepared with aplomb”… “mouth-watering”. There’s a “great value set menu”, but “beware of straying too far from it, as otherwise racking up a hefty bill is very, very, very easy”.

“Sally has triumphed in maintaining stands and a smile across the decades” and the “super-civilised institution” she opened in 1984, south of Notting Hill Gate, has shown rare staying power. That “there is always a really warm welcome” from the “effective and nurturing” staff goes down well, as does the way she has “maintained excellence with the finest seasonal produce perfectly cooked” (inspired by Alice Waters of Chez Panisse in California, her friend and mentor since the late 1970s). “Simple but elegant decor” and a strong wine list focused on North America complete a picture which still inspires practically zero criticism.