Watford, French Restaurant Guide

This “lovely old pub” in the Chilterns, handy for the Harry Potter antics at Warner Bros Studio nearby, built up quite a reputation for its Anglo-French cooking over nearly two decades under husband-and-wife team Sally & Alvin Michaels. The 18th-century venue is now managed by Alvin’s former protégé Matt Jackson (and part of the growing RedCat pub company) but, on limited feedback this year, its “exceptional pub dining” still makes it a local magnet.

East Finchley is “so lucky to have this hidden high-street gem” – one of north London’s more popular and “welcoming” local restaurants “serving delicious, well cooked food” from a resolutely French menu. Top Tip – “the three-course set lunch is a wonderful bargain”.

“Consistently good food and a lovely atmosphere” backed up by “intelligently engaged and well-informed service” deliver everything you could reasonably expect from this handsome Georgian tavern in Hampstead, run for more than 20 years by Beth Coventry (sister of Fay Maschler, the doyenne of London restaurant critics). “The pub’s keenness to welcome dogs (with their own menu) may divide opinion” – but also wins many friends. Top Menu Tip – “save room for dessert; it’s sometimes the star of the show”.

Simon & Jacinta Bradley’s “reliable neighbourhood restaurant” near Swiss Cottage station is one of the capital’s stalwart local champions, offering an unfailing combination of “well-presented dishes, friendly service and well chosen wines” for 32 years and counting. “Rarely busy at lunchtime”, it’s also a “very useful pre-theatre restaurant” for those heading to the Hampstead Theatre around the corner. Ratings, though, remain capped by those who view it as “a venue that’s convenient but dull”.

You could be in ‘La France profonde’ at this “great neighbourhood restaurant” by distant Acton Green. Foodwise, it’s “more than a bistro – this is seriously good classical French cooking, more than worth the detour”. There’s “no greedy pricing, even on the wine”, and “if it feels a bit old-fashioned, that’s attractive in this era of chef worship and cult-like trends!”. Top Menu Tip – “the cheese soufflé is a must every visit”.

La Patronne, Catherine Parisot, was just in her twenties when she started this “lovely” old-fashioned charmer in St John’s Wood and has run it for over 43 years now. A very loyal clientele from all over London has discovered it over the years, and for them it’s a huge “favourite” that’s particularly “perfect for evenings ‘à deux’”. Her classic ‘cuisine bourgeoise’ is “old-fashioned French cooking at its best (you would struggle to match it in France)”; and features “a number of staples on the menu that have been on forever (her pea soup is unbeatable!”). Its ratings no longer scale the pinnacles they did some years ago, but the overall tenor of reports remains overwhelmingly positive: “so French, perfect food, perfect service, I love it!”

“Combining the best of French and Italian gastronomy” – Emily Roux and her husband Diego Ferrari continue to put in an assured performance at their “lovely neighbourhood restaurant” in Notting Hill. The cuisine is of “excellent quality”, yet not particularly striving for its own sake: aptly described in one report as “enjoyable fine dining, comfort dishes”. You can either opt for à la carte – three courses for £92 per person – or go for a five-course ‘Build Your Own Tasting Menu’ option at £120 per person. “Simply divine: expensive but worth it!”

“Food with outstanding provenance and in generous portions” delivered with service that’s “friendly and professional” wins ongoing praise from a small but dedicated fan club of Richard Wilkins’s small corner-restaurant on the border between Notting Hill and Bayswater (which seats 16 at maximum capacity). The restaurant’s website recommends that you allow three hours for its ‘carte blanche tasting menu’.

This “hidden gem” of a wine bar, “tucked away in the stuccoed splendour of Westbourne Park”, serves “sophisticated French food” in tapas-size portions and “good (if expensive) wines” in “stylish yet cosy” surroundings, with exposed brickwork and wooden tables .

“Lovely food, lovely atmosphere and discreet staff” are the attractions at this “local” bistro, a Crouch End fixture for more than 20 years. “Love it! The rooms are like a maze”, with white tablecloths adding a touch of style.

This “French gem” in a “pleasant little pub tucked away in a corner of Ayot Green” serves “good food at sensible prices” in an atmosphere that’s “refined without being daunting”. Patron Laurent Brydniak has “run the place well” for 15 years, and does a good trade at lunchtime feeding walkers visiting the nearby Brocket Hall Estate.

2021 Review: This “excellent local” bistro in Primrose Hill – “there should be one on every high street” – has a “good buzz” and does “a nice line in deconstructed versions of French classics”. The original La Petite Ferme near Exmouth Market is a “lovely little” venue “offering brilliant value”.

“Oslo Court is one of a kind” and “still going strong after 40 years” at the foot of an apartment block north of Regent’s Park. “Old School in the extreme”, it’s a “classic that never goes out of fashion”… at least if your idea of ‘classic’ is drawn from the era of the mid-1970s. “From the peach tablecloths to the generous servings of melba toast, butter curls and crudités, it’s like going back in time… in a good way. Staff make you feel very special, the whole experience is warm and fun and the classic cooking is great”, so long as you are looking for the antithesis of modern food fashion. “The menu is incredibly large and there’s a long list of specials too” (remember Avocado & Prawns? Or Melon with Parma Ham? Dover Sole Véronique?). “Bring an appetite” as “portions are excellent”. Also, go in festive mood: seemingly everyone over the age of 80 in north London is there to celebrate an occasion (“I lost count of how many times Happy Birthday was sung at lunch last Saturday.”). Top Tip – “the waiter who has been there years still serves the best desserts”.

2024 Review: 800+ wines by the bottle and a selection of 75 craft beers are the USP of this intriguing Tufnell Park showcase for regional French drinks and produce. The menu changes every six weeks with a different region moving into focus – it’s short and in a supporting role to all the delicious grog, but good value.

“A decent attempt to reproduce Provençal cooking in Shepherd’s Bush”: Lawrence & Emily Hartley’s “nice local bistro” north of Brook Green – “a successor to a spot that was Café Rouge for many years” (and briefly Mustard, RIP) – provides “French classics” with “friendly service”. Critics feel that at times, “the food, though fairly authentic, can be just a bit underwhelming”; but the majority see “much to recommend the place” and feel it’s a “welcome venture” in this underserved neck of the woods. Top Tip – “good set menu”.

“In beautiful Primrose Hill”, just by the Regent’s Canal, this quirkily situated ‘Restaurant, Martini Bar & Garden’ showcases Michael Nadra’s “really lovely” modern European food, and attracts very consistent praise from fans across north London. (His original W4 venue shut down a couple of years ago).

“Authentically Gallic bistro” near Kew station that’s built a strong following over 16 years for its competitively priced “French classics”. The retro 1950s styling – all gingham tablecloths and Impressionist posters – is part of the appeal. Top Tip – “good-value set lunch”.