Watford, Italian Restaurant Guide

“A great little find right opposite King’s Cross”. “The location is not the best” – immediately off a busy pavement and bordering the trafficky Euston Road – but, if you want a good-value refuel before you hop on a train (especially with family in tow), this bright pitstop at the foot of a boutique hotel is trying hard: “service is good and they obviously care”. Made to be shared, each dish is carefully prepared representing Italy in all its glory from the open space kitchen located in the middle of the Restaurant and “the food is very nice”. In case you’ve been wondering, the place is named after the 19th-century Anglo-Italian inventor of the railway signalling system.

Inspired by La Dolce Vita lifestyle (indeed, there used to be an accompanying apparel resort-wear brand), this small Italian group strives to evoke the retro glamour of the 1960s ‘jet set’. There’s some enthusiasm for them amongst reporters, but a recognition that the food is “nice but not exceptional”: “I had an excellent martini. But the dishes were either overly seasoned or (the salad) not dressed at all”.

“Terrific ingredients, cleverly but unfussily combined” has long been the hallmark of Sally Clarke’s “impeccably run restaurant” in Notting Hill, which has been at the cutting edge of promoting seasonal, Californian-inspired cuisine since 1984. “It’s on the pricey side, but quality remains superb”; the setting is “romantic”; and the service, from a loyal and seemingly well-looked-after contingent of staff is “excellent, all overseen by Sally herself”. The “marvellous” wine list has an “unusual emphasis on North American wines” and some “reasonably priced alternatives to famous names”. Top Tip – “the good-value daily lunch set menu is a fantastic way to try this restaurant out”.

We’re in two minds about the inclusion of this former star of London’s tapas scene, which generates very little feedback nowadays despite a prime mid-Soho site. Fans do still laud its “well-crafted dishes and Spanish wines”, but others say “the food has that ‘here’s one I made earlier’ quality. OK, but not very exciting”.

These “upscalish Italians” – part of an international chain – serve pizza, pasta and other lighter dishes, featuring the trademark ingredient. It can be that the “quality of the food is a pleasant surprise”; they inspired nothing but positive feedback this year.

“The original Salt Yard in W1 used to be one of London’s best new tapas restaurants” – but it opened over 15 years ago and “the subsequent roll-out of the brand as multiple branches” under Urban Pubs & Bars “has seen quality drop quite a lot”. As “a pleasant option for well-produced Med-inspired dishes”, they maintain a fair number of fans, if without the pizzazz once conjured by the name. The year-old branch near the entrance to Westfield is the highest rated, and the newest near Borough Market is also seen as “a handy addition to the group”.

2023 Review: Near Harrods, this Italian of 35 years’ standing is recently part of the San Carlo brand, but fits well into the glamorous, traditional mould of that Manchester-based group. “The food can be excellent, but is also erratic at times.”

“Still a special place even though it’s moved site” – this veteran Soho Italian was evicted from its previous Poland Street home over Covid, and found these new digs last year. It still “exudes old world charm” and has retained many of the former “delightful” staff, who are really at the heart of this “unpretentious” experience as much as the “reliable Umbrian/Italian cooking”.

“Feeling like a serious step up from your run-of-the-mill Italian, but not breaking the bank” – this unusual and stylish venture is a spin-off from the Stafford Hotel. There’s a Sicilian focus to the menu and the food is “absolutely delicious”. “Booths make it a great spot for a business lunch – intimate enough to be quiet in a bustling restaurant”, with very attentive service. Top Menu Tip – “dangerously delectable focaccia”.

Retired maître d’ Tony and his team created an atmosphere that was “mad, crowded, noisy yet still great fun” at this fifty-year-old Trattoria (est. 1974), long known for providing relatively good value for somewhere not far from the back door of Harrods. In February 2023, it was taken over by The Thesleff Group, whose press release promises ‘a revitalised energy and subtle changes’ to this old groover, which includes a trendified menu. No reports from the old regulars as yet on the new regime so we’ve left it un-rated for the time being.