West Bay Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: Two vintage railway carriages near the sea and harbour in the former West Bay station constitute this “delightful” venue. The cooking is sometimes seen as the weakest link (“they try hard, without really hitting the spot”), but most reports are upbeat, citing “above average food” in an “unusual and quirky setting”. Since our annual diners’ poll concluded, change is afoot with a new arrangement introduced in autumn 2022, which sees fine dining from chef Chris Chatfield’s seasonal menu in the newer ‘Beeching’ carriage, and relaxed dining in ‘Brunel’, from the First World War, with both menus available in the dog-friendly ‘Station House’.

2022 Review: This hip West Country tribute to East Asian casual dining serves “great food” in a “great atmosphere”, and is “even better with the new look post-lockdown”. The menu is constructed around dumplings filled with prime Dorset ingredients, backed up by a small selection of main and side dishes, and with sake options on the drinks list. It’s a formula that comes up trumps: “couldn’t get enough of the dumplings!”. (Note: despite the suggestion in the name, there’s no sushi on the menu.)

“Excellent fish, super-efficient service and a wonderful outlook on the beach” – three reasons to love this Jurassic Coast staple (est. 1991), and with siblings in West Bay and West Bexington; yes, the “seating is basic, but comfortable enough and with those views and the quality of the food, who cares?!” Top Tip – “look out for ‘Lobster Wednesday’! It’s the best deal on the coast!”.

“In a delightful old hotel in a lovely little Dorset town” – a 14th-century house full of charming original features – this “hidden gem” was snapped up by Silvana Bandini in 2018, after a stint working at the Bath outpost of foodie hotel chain, The Pig. The “reliably fine cooking” (of everything from pizzas to small plates) is overseen by ex-Mandarin Oriental/Bath Priory chef Chris Staines and wins nothing but praise for its “unusual combinations” (that are “exceptional value for money too”).

2022 Review: Cass Titcombe's “small, cosy and friendly restaurant overlooking the village square” offers “just the perfect balance of everything”, say fans – whether that’s the much-foraged, Mediterranean-style food, or the fine interiors, courtesy of partner Louise. The duo also run an excellent shop, Brassica Mercantile, across the road, mixing homewares, foodie books and gourmet treats (including from Borough Market).

This wine bar in a 400-year-old cellar provides a “relaxed ambience” for chef Harriet Mansell’s “truly original and special local food”, much of it based around foraged ingredients, with which she made her name at the much lamented Robin Wylde before it closed in 2023. She offers her full gastronomic experience at seasonal ‘Garden Table’ dinners.

Try to nab a window seat – or in fine weather a place on the terrace – if you visit this brilliantly well-situated venue. All reports rate its “good fresh fish” from “rather a short menu” (which also features local beef as an alternative to the seafood). One supporter also muses that it’s “quite expensive – is it trading on its excellent position”?

2023 Review: This “quaint pub in the tiny village of Evershot” – immortalised as the ‘Sow and Acorn’ in Thomas Hardy’s ‘Tess of the d’Urbervilles’ – offers “beautifully presented, consistently good and interesting” food from Kenyan-born chef Robert Ndungu. It is the more informal sibling of Summer Lodge on the other side of the village, from the Red Carnation hotel group.

“A great and romantic hideaway” – the Red Carnation group’s “traditional country hotel never disappoints for comfort”. The dining room offers straightforward but well-realised cooking from a two-course or three-course à la carte menu: food that’s “well presented and interesting but not too fancy”.

2021 Review: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s TV tie-in kitchen – serving sharing boards and veggie tapas alongside more conventional starters and mains – is celebrating its twentieth anniversary, but feedback on it has seldom matched the hype, and is too limited last year for a rating. Such as we have says it’s OK value, but variable in performance.

“In an area where good food options are still surprisingly rare”, this “lovely” 16th-century gastroboozer on the Devon/Dorset/Somerset border (also handy for the delights of the Jurassic Coast) shines all the more. Mirroring reports in previous years from its very dedicated fan club, “the prices might be getting a bit high” these days, but when the service and modern British food with a Euro twist “are always so good”, absolutely nobody seems to mind.

2021 Review: This “lovely” thatched village pub opened in 1680 as an inn for passing travellers, and still makes a “delightful stopover” just off the A303 near Crewkerne. Ratings for its “high quality”, “classical” food have revived in the past 12 months under new owners backed by Nick Jones of Soho House (who also own the Beckford Arms at Tisbury and the Talbot Inn at Mells). Steve Hill and Michelle Payton, who ran it for 15 years, have retired to France.

2022 Review: With no social media presence as yet, and a hard-to-find name (lots of search results for Carluccio's – not helped by the fact that this location used to be one, and even repurposes the sign), we are presuming that Luciano Pierre White is relying on word of mouth – and his famous name – to get punters into his first solo restaurant. He's worked with Pierre Koffmann and the Adria brothers according to press quotes, and his father credits him with a great work ethic. An early-doors visit from a reporter noted it to be ‘very promising’ and another thought ‘the food’s great and the service will only improve’.

2023 Review: “Genuinely spectacular pizzas and gorgeous Italian food in the middle of a farmyard” in the picturesque Bride Valley may be “very off-road for many” – but this “interesting restaurant” with “friendly staff” is by all accounts well worth the trip. Brede Farm also hosts a cider press, micro brewery, campsite and live music.

The “perfect location” overlooking Chesil Beach, “knowledgeable and friendly staff” and “delicious and changing menu” tick most of the boxes at this Art Deco-style seaside venue with plenty of outdoor seating – although a significant minority reckon it’s “disappointing compared to previous visits”.

2022 Review: “Like being on the Med, only with local IPAs and bitters” instead of a carafe of wine or Campari – an “excellent” two-year-old seafood restaurant (primarily) where diners can enjoy “friendly service”, “superb” sharing platters and the “most extravagant Niçoise ever!”. After a meal, make sure to check out the neighbouring arts hub Town Mill.

2022 Review: Former River Cottage chef Dom Moldenhauer is now “cooking whatever he can source that day” and serving it in “very different” four-course evening set menus at this new venture, following on from a pop-up during the first lockdown. The venue is open Wed-Sat, and by all accounts the “food is superb!”.

Opening in early 2025, the latest branch of this Devon-based fish and seafood specialist has taken over the site of Mark Hix’s Oyster and Fish House (which closed in December 2024). Expect a good range of fish supplied from Brixham, where founder Mitch Tonks has his own day boat.