Westminster, French Restaurant Guide

This “bustling bistrot tucked down a side street near Victoria” feels “just like being in a small, rushed French café”. Lyon-born founder Aurelia Noel-Delclos named the business after the grandmother who inspired her love of food. The 10-year-old original branch, in the tourist ‘ground zero’ of old Covent Garden market, is less reported-on, but said to be “decent” for “post-matinée early dinner”.

This “delightful” and “very trad (in a good way) French resto” in St James’s thrives on its “unpretentious, classic cooking delivered by efficient and accommodating waiting staff” under an “entertaining boss who seems to know everyone”. “There have been several very good restaurants on this site (Boulestin and L’Oranger inter alia) and Saint Jacques is up there with any of them”. Top Menu Tip – “the theatre of crêpes Suzette cooked by the table is highly recommended”.

This “smart bit of France in swanky St James’s” is becoming an established favourite in the West End thanks in large part to its elegant and “buzzy” setting and the fact that it is “well organised”. The classic menu of “French brasserie classics” has “lots of crowd-pleasers”, but opinions divide on the results – to critics it is “a little expensive for what it is”, but fans feel “the food is top-notch” and ratings tend to support those who say this is “a place for serious cooking, not just a big café”. Top Tip – “the dessert trolley is an utter treat”.

2022 Review: Below Maison François (see also), this amiable, new, no-bookings wine bar in St James’s mixes a nowadays-proven formula of unconventional wines with hearty Gallic small plates: charcuterie, pâté and so forth. Handy to know about in a pricey area.

“A secret, below-ground escape from the mayhem of Leicester Square” for more than half a century – this “well-hidden”, “old-school” wine bar has “only got better” over the years, first under founder Don Hewitson and latterly under Will Clayton. Top Menu Tip – “share the ham and cheese pie (it is absolutely enormous)”, and has sold around a million portions since 1971.

“On more than one occasion we have observed someone ‘popping the question’ here!” – the “magical” setting “never fails to impress” at this Covent Garden oasis, yet again voted London’s No.1 venue for romance in our annual diners’ poll. “Sitting in the conservatory is a joy, especially in good weather when the retractable roof is open” and its “most beautiful interior courtyard is tailormade for a date”. “The largely Provençal and Tuscan cuisine is good but the star of this show is the magnificent wine list, with choices from around the world and prices to suit all budgets. The only recommendation is to read the wine list at home in advance, otherwise you’ll spend the first hour ignoring your date!”.

“This intimate little counter-dining venue” in an ancient pub that nowadays finds itself part of Chinatown “shows levels of skill and technique to compete with much better-known places that leave you with a far higher bill”. James Goodyear has taken over from Luke Selby (the latter departing to be head chef at Le Manoir), but all reports swoon over “a truly special experience” and a multi-course tasting menu that’s “absolutely exceptional”. “Love the counter-top layout of the restaurant and the chefs are very happy to talk, explaining in detail how things are made (important to me because I am a very keen cook!)”. “It has a buzzy vibe and is a bit of a squeeze (in both space and time), making it a very different formula than nearby Aulis. Having said that, the cooking is consistently delightful, imaginative and bold. The menu feels well thought-through, building and balancing as it progresses”. “File it under ‘one to watch’ as they plan to build out the ambition even further”: from mid-2023 they are opening on Monday nights and also incorporating their wine bar, The Mulwray, and the pub, The Blue Posts, into the overall offering at Evelyn’s Table.

“Transport yourself to an imaginary 1930s world of Parisian glamour, as might be imagined by Fitzgerald or Hollywood”, when you visit this Art Deco basement, “bang in the heart of town”, just seconds from Piccadilly Circus. “The vast (Grade I listed) room is a crowded symphony of marble and gold leaf, with an immense buzz” and is “a faithful facsimile of a traditional French brasserie”, complete with an excellent American Bar. Fans say “if you want to impress without spending a fortune then this is the place to go” and since its founding (in 2015) it’s become a byword for “affordable luxury”, with most folks tolerating its “dull and unmemorable” Gallic staples for the overall package. Since changes in the group, however, the equation is beginning to shift and fears are growing that “the package all-round is not quite good enough”. “Service in particular has fallen notably in the post-Jeremy King era” and for more critical types “the whole experience is rather underwhelming” (“it was busy, but instead of making the atmosphere vibrant, there was a tired feel to the experience”). That’s not yet the dominant verdict though: most diners still “never tire of visiting… it always feels like a wonderful and extravagant treat”.

A “Covent Garden staple” for 33 years, this “bustling French bistro with packed tables but speedy service” serves “good-value, reliably cooked traditional Gallic fare” that belies its somewhat touristy looks. Top Tip – “a wide-ranging menu and the set menus and special deals add to its appeal; and it’s a good choice for families with children”.

2023 Review: Rihanna celebrated her birthday in February 2022 at this lavish Creole haunt next to The Ivy, in Covent Garden, where the former site of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon nowadays combines a restaurant (ground floor), bar (first floor) and roof garden. Whether the tastes of New Orleans are faithfully replicated is a matter of some dispute – there is the odd take-down of “overpriced and under-seasoned dross”, but most reports actually say its gumbo, Louisiana crab cakes and other eclectic dishes are “very good”.