Woodford, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: A “perennial favourite local relaxed foodie joint”, this ex-pub turned “bistro-cum-cafe-cum-restaurant” goes from strength to strength as a showcase for the “inventive food” of chef-owner Dave Jenkins, whose dishes “always delight, with lovely little touches and innovations that make total sense once you’ve tasted them”. They serve “great breakfasts, good-value lunches”, and “the best Sunday roast in town”.

“Culinary innovation intertwines seamlessly with environmental stewardship, plus with unparalleled service and flavour” at Dan Cox’s February 2023 newcomer: part of an 120-acre farm with bakery and restaurant that “embraces traditional preservation techniques and locally sourced ingredients” with “a dedication to low-intervention, regenerative farming not only eschewing artificial fertilisers and pesticides but also reintroducing heritage crops, long forgotten by commercial channels”. All reports on it are outstanding, including numerous best meals of the year, and the upshot is “a lovely ethos and amazing quality” in the 25-cover restaurant, where the main offering is a nine-course tasting menu for £105 per person. Converts say: “It stands as a beacon of excellence, inspiring others to follow suit in preserving and enhancing the very environment that nurtures their creations”. Top Menu Tip – “Venison sourced from the local estate fulfils a dual purpose, ensuring habitat preservation while providing exquisite flavours on the plate. Similarly, matured sheep, aged six years, grace the menu, their meat meticulously dry-aged on-site in a DIY ageing room. Even the bones, once depleted of flavour, find new life as part of the crockery glaze”.

A couple of miles from the entrance to Dartmoor National Park, John & Emma Hooker’s attractive coaching inn is no stranger to awards lists, currently ranking at number two on Estrella Damm’s Top 50 Gastropubs list. You’re “always guaranteed an absolute corker of a meal” (British, unpretentious, but “lavished with care”), and a “fab atmosphere” too – no wonder reporters just “love it here”.

“This outstanding hotel overlooking the Tamar Valley on the border of Devon and Cornwall is a joy and the restaurant is one of its selling points” – another being the country pile’s “magnificent views”. One reporter who last visited in its heyday (in the 1980s) found it a little more average these days, but other diners praise its “well presented and tasty cooking” at “fair prices”.

“A wine bar with amazing character and great food” – Zoe Brodie & Fitz Spencer’s wine shop/deli overlooking Sutton Harbour offers some “fantastic small plates and sharing boards” – including ‘Fitzy’s Fat Boy Board’, which comprises pretty well the whole menu for £130.

2023 Review: “Worth a detour. Have been coming since they opened under new ownership in 2019 and it’s only grown in strength despite the pandemic. Absolute gem!” – limited but very enthusiastic feedback on this 14-bedroom hotel on the South West Coast path, with commanding views of the sea and looking over Hope Cove beach (which is yards away). The food is brasserie-style fare (sirloin, red mullet, confit duck…) and good value.