Bankside, Italian Restaurant Guide

You walk past “chiller meat displays” as you enter Roberto Costa’s Italian group. Macellaio means ‘butcher’, and the focus is on quality steaks, particularly the Piemontese Fassona breed, but also including cuts from the UK (from Herefordshire) and with tomahawk and Halal options; all matched with an “extensive wine list”. “For a great and reasonable dinner (including pre-theatre) and excellent steaks” it does still have fans. But its support has waned in both quality and quantity in recent years, and the group has halved in size since the last edition, shedding branches in Bloomsbury, Borough and Clapham (all RIP) to focus on Theatreland/Soho, Exmouth Market and the South Kensington original. All of the (relatively few) reports say the food is still mostly good but increasingly there are caveats: “Hmmm, the steaks are getting pretty… not bad, but no longer as good value”. Top Menu Tip – the “dessert theatre of tiramisu created at the table”.

2022 Review: This 55-year-old City trattoria is a popular, lunchtime rendezvous spot on account of its “huge” helpings of classic dishes; its terrace by Bow churchyard for al fresco eating; and its good regional list of Italian wines.

“Knocking it out of the park, with wonderful fresh pasta, buzzy vibe and great value” – Tim Siadatan & Jordan Frieda’s famous Borough Market flagship celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, and along with its magnificent Shoreditch spinoff inspires better-than-ever ratings for a superb-value offering, which continues to attract new converts (“I have taken many friends, all of whom love it”). To their credit, everything is made daily (with the kitchen on full view through the windows in EC2); and prices remain super-competitive: you can still have a bowl of pasta for under £10. The Borough original does not take bookings, but these days you can queue virtually via the Dojo app. A typical meal? – “Anchovies with bread and butter, Pasta with crab, Rhubarb and almond tart, Glass of Primitivo. Bill – very reasonable”.

“Properly Italian food, properly cooked” is on the menu at this “super-authentic Puglian-style” restaurant “near the Almeida theatre” in Islington (“always a favourite place to go before a play”). “The food is rustic and always delicious” – “lovely pasta and rich, fresh, full-of-flavour sauces, in generous portions”, plus “spectacular pizzas”. There’s a “super atmosphere”, although it gets “very noisy at busy times”, and they have a second branch near St Paul’s in the City. Top Menu Tips – “they cater brilliantly for coeliacs, baking their own gluten-free bread on site and it’s fantastic”; “very good Salento Panzerotti di patate, finger croquettes with the lightest of crust rather than a mini-calzone”.

“Bowled over by the quality of the pasta and the reasonable prices, especially for central London!” – that’s the appeal in a nutshell of these busy Soho and Covent Garden pitstops, which are – for their legions of fans – “useful go-tos in the West End for an affordable meal”. On the downside, some feel “the homemade pasta is less impressive than the reviews lead you to believe”; the experience can feel “rushed” (“I don’t count being reminded every ten minutes how long until they want your seats back as good service”); and the setting can seem “just too cramped”. Still, they must be doing something right, with recent openings in Borough and (as of summer 2025) Kensington.

“An excellent group serving good food and wine with a smile” – this trio of Italians in the Square Mile offer an impressive selection of red wines in particular from the peninsula, backed up by a sensible menu with a focus on meat from the grill. Prices are “premium” but quality is sound. The Devonshire Square outlet benefits from an attractive outdoor terrace for al fresco dining.

Opening its 10th branch in 2025 – amidst the towers of Canary Wharf – this much commented- on chain is leaving behind its Soho roots – as a quaint old deli of 75 years’ standing – and is now in full-on ‘roll-out’ mode. Fans still find it “very impressive for a chain that’s growing so fast” and tip its “lovely mint-green” outlets as “an ideal place to meet and enjoy authentic pasta and Italian dishes”. Some branches, though, are better than others: in particular the “friendly and relaxed Marylebone branch at the junction of Wigmore Street is a winner”. Others, though, can show the strains of expansion: “What’s the point? It’s neither stand-out, nor cheap and cheerful. Unexceptional pasta is served in a so-so ambience. I am not sure I get it??”