Belgravia, International Restaurant Guide

“Now that the once-legendary host-patron Philip Lawless has passed, it isn’t quite the same” at this old-fashioned bar/brasserie (est. 1982) in ever-posher SW1, which once epitomised ‘Sloane Ranger’ territory. Some of its older denizens still exude a certain “Belgravia bonkers” energy, but fans still like its “hearty” fare, best enjoyed in summer when the large pavement terrace comes into its own.

2021 Review: Opened in November 2018 on the site that long ago was the nightclub Pacha, this 400-cover food hall hosts eleven vendors, plus three bars and a coffee stop. “Variety is the key to its strength” and – as at many similar venues – “much of the food is better-than-OK but some is not excellent”. A West End branch is opening in late-2019; Fulham was the first, in the atmospheric former ticketing hall of the tube station. Top Tip – “very family friendly and you’re spoilt for choice”.