Belgravia, Italian Restaurant Guide

“Reliable Sardinian shellfish and pasta” win consistent high marks for this seafood specialist in Mauro Sanno’s smart Belgravia group, which has been feeding well-heeled locals for 15 years. The pavement seating in the summer is a better bet than the sleek but stark modern interior.

Inspired by La Dolce Vita lifestyle (indeed, there used to be an accompanying apparel resort-wear brand), this small Italian group strives to evoke the retro glamour of the 1960s ‘jet set’. There’s some enthusiasm for them amongst reporters, but a recognition that the food is “nice but not exceptional”: “I had an excellent martini. But the dishes were either overly seasoned or (the salad) not dressed at all”.

Food writer Laura Santini nowadays oversees this datedly chic Belgravia Italian founded by her father Gino in 1984, and which had quite a celebrity following back in the day (Frank Sinatra was a fan). Ever since we started our guide in 1991, it’s been priced for the rich residents of SW1 (a bowl of pasta is about £30), and most years don’t see a huge volume of reports. Representative of feedback this year: “OK food on the whole (if unexciting)… and big wine list mark-ups”.

In its day a pioneer of Italian ‘peasant’ cuisine in the capital, Mauro Sanna’s original Belgravia Sardinian remains “steady and always reliable” in its 35th year – “this restaurant has never disappointed”. If it’s “quite pricey”, that has never been an issue for the well-heeled locals who ensure it is perennially busy.

Whether you choose pizza, pasta or a main dish, this all-rounder in Sardinian Mauro Sanna’s smart Belgravia group “never disappoints”. Following a fire, it has moved a few doors to the premises formerly occupied by stablemate Olivocarne (RIP). A major attraction is the “wine list to delight lovers of off-beat, small producer wines”.

2022 Review: “Fairly modern in style”, this Belgravia Italian of over 20 years’ standing has a “pleasant” ambience and typically provides a civilised safe haven within striking distance of Victoria. We have rated it on the basis of its consistent pre-pandemic performance and the assumption that it will reopen: as we go to press in September 2021, it remains ‘temporarily closed’.

“Top-notch food and great service” continue to win praise for this chic Belgravia Italian. Compared with its 1990s heyday (when under Giorgio Locatelli it reigned supreme as London’s best) it doesn’t attract nearly the same level of attention, partly because it is “very, very expensive”. But quality remains high and it’s particularly popular amongst expense-accounters as a good way to “impress clients”.

2021 Review: Emptied your wallet at Harrods and need to recover over a bowl of pasta and glass of fizz? – Richard Caring’s “fun” and “nicely buzzing” Italian brasserie, near the store’s rear entrance, can be just the job. Now two years old, its fanbase primarily seems to extend to shoppers and other miscellaneous Knightsbridge types, as it elicits limited survey feedback; but all reports praise its “great consistency in a fun setting with attentive and engaging staff”.

All-day Italian-style eating, inspired by the grand cafés of Europe and the culinary traditions of Venice, is the aim at this ground-floor venue in a hotel near Victoria station and its sibling in the Battersea Power Station development’s new art’otel. Both can still be an “asset to the area”, offering a “buzzing” setting, “amazing breakfasts” and “decent dining proposition”, but there was also a high proportion of disappointments this year – in particular, poor service in both locations.

2021 Review: Now over ten years old, this Venetian/Mediterranean chain has suffered a drip-feed of branch closures, with only two now trading: Soho and Chelsea. And in August 2020 it parted ways with its co-founder Russell Norman. Fans do still applaud the duo’s “very convivial and fun” formula, but the groups woes have stemmed from Venetian small plates that are often “no better than fine”, and at worst “uncared for” or “very mediocre”. Perhaps it will now finally turn a corner?

“As good as anything you might experience in Verona or Florence” – Theo Randall’s “divine, monthly regional tasting menus” produce “consistently great” results as well as adding interest to his Mayfair HQ, just off Hyde Park Corner. “There’s the option of wine matches” and “a good cocktail bar (especially the design-your-own-Negroni option!)”. “Ok, the space isn’t terrific” – windowless, and off the foyer of a large 1970s hotel – but “it is one of the very few celebrity chef restaurants where the chef is frequently to be seen”. “Theo always seems to be there and comes out into the dining room most times you visit”, helping create an overall atmosphere that was surprisingly well-rated this year. Top Tip – “Sunday brunch at £65 including unlimited Prosecco, Negroni or Aperol Spritz is particularly good value”.

Inspired by La Dolce Vita lifestyle (indeed, there used to be an accompanying apparel resort-wear brand), this small Italian group strives to evoke the retro glamour of the 1960s ‘jet set’. There’s some enthusiasm for them amongst reporters, but a recognition that the food is “nice but not exceptional”: “I had an excellent martini. But the dishes were either overly seasoned or (the salad) not dressed at all”.

2023 Review: A new spin-off from a famous Florence-based international group (founded in the 1950s, whose HQ is the 15th-century Palazzo Antinori) – this Autumn 2022 newcomer is the brand’s first UK venture. It occupies a three-storey site just off Sloane Street, from which it will offer all-day dining featuring Tuscan food and wine in a fairly old-school vein. The opening sounds like it’s a project of serious intent, as evidenced by their 10-year lease. Cantinetta Antinori also has outlets in Zurich, Moscow, Vienna and Monaco.