Belgravia, Scottish Restaurant Guide

“Simply a great night every time” – “a wonderfully club-like, somewhat masculine environment” characterises Ranald Macdonald’s red-walled Belgravian stalwart, which he started as a young man in 1986 shortly after a stint in the wine trade. The decorative theme is Scottish – the owner is after all the 24th chief and captain of Clanranald – and the menu features “top steaks” alongside haggis, lobster and burgers; plus a wide large variety of other, predominantly British dishes. Regular live music is a feature, as is “a great cocktail bar and lovely cigar terrace”. “Okay, the food’s nothing to write home about, but there’s nothing wrong with it either”.