Bermondsey, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: With a “taster menu that’s second to none”, Robin and Sarah Gill’s crack kitchen team have settled in well to their new home in a Bermondsey ‘aparthotel’. They moved over from Clapham’s The Dairy, which did not survive the pandemic, but a taste of the latter’s “imaginative, skillful small-plate cooking” using carefully sourced seasonal ingredients is still available here.

“Steve Williams is a skilled chef backed by an interesting natural wine list” and his canteen attached to a biodynamic wine warehouse in a railway arch behind London Bridge station has helped put the area on the culinary map. It’s “a top example of natural wine + amazing food celebrating the ingredients”; and its no-frills environment belies its importance over the past decade in “the genesis of many great new arrivals on the London food scene”.

“A great discovery, even though it’s been there a long time” – this green-tiled gastropub helped put Bermondsey on the gastronomic map in the early noughties. The food is more bistro fare (e.g. Chicken Liver Parfait, Steak Frites, Chocolate Crémeux) than pub grub, and although you can eat cheaply here, you can also push the boat out on the more ambitious main dishes.