Blackfriars, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

James Dawson’s wine shops/clubs/bars are “great places to catch up with friends over a bottle you might never ordinarily have tried”. “The staff are super-helpful, with lots of suggestions” of bottles from independent and sustainable producers. The food is “OK if a little uninspiring”, but “who cares when there’s one evening a week when you can drink wine at retail prices”.

“Doing a grand job of showcasing the school” – “seemingly simple small dishes done with exemplary refinement” (“perfect pork belly and a delicate citrus tart slice”) impress diners at this year-old restaurant, where you can sample the work of the august Le Cordon Bleu culinary institute (founded in Paris in 1895). Set in an “well-spaced, light-filled” dining room in Fleet Street’s Grade II listed former Reuters building (designed by Lutyens), it also has a “clean lined and attractive” adjoining daytime café worth visiting for its “accurately toasted” sandwiches and cakes.

2022 Review: The name says it all about this new ‘Britisserie’ (an ‘authentic British patisserie’), which opened on a corner site near St Paul’s in December 2019. Owners Daniel Jobsz and his mum honed their classic pie-making skills at markets, festivals and pop-ups from 2015 before they found the site, which incorporates a small courtyard. Full English breakfasts (in a tart, of course), plus epic mash and a good list of beers and other drinks complete the formula.

“The view is incredible, especially in the evening” from the posh section of this South Bank landmark – “anything with a view of St Paul’s wins high marks in the romantic stakes”. But too many of those acknowledging the “wonderful location” feel it “needs a revamp”, or find the experience “very overpriced for the quality of food and service… One can’t help but feel that OXO Tower trades off of its name and outlook rather than the actual virtues of its offering”.

“A table right by the windows here – overlooking the river – is frankly still one of the best restaurant views to be had in London”; and some diners feel that the brasserie at this long-established Art Deco landmark provides a good all-round experience. It still gives rise to more than its fair share of disappointments, though, and the perennial complaint that “you get a wonderful vista but a very disappointing experience”.

“Hidden away on the north bank of the Thames” by the ‘Wobbly Bridge’, directly opposite Tate Modern, you’ll find Neleen Strauss’s “well-executed Western Cape restaurant”, which is “big on steaks” but arguably most notable for its “very good and well structured” South African wine list. Top Tip – “I bring all my City contacts here”.

This swish and “buzzy” hotel dining room on the South Bank walkway – designed by Tom Dixon with full-height windows and a terrace overlooking the river – makes a most “enjoyable place to meet friends” – “and there’s a great bar” by Ryan Chetiyawardana, aka Mr Lyan. On the debit side, it’s certainly “not cheap”, and the food “could be so much better”.

With its “great view over the river”, the sixth-floor restaurant in this converted power station opposite St Paul’s Cathedral is a “really rather splendid place for a decent set lunch”. The food is “better than expected, perhaps better than it needed to be” – “appropriately arty”, too, with dishes inspired by artists on display in the gallery. (Over at Tate Britain, “the Rex Whistler dining room is sorely missed and a real loss” – its closure brought about by a combination of Covid and dilemmas about the depiction of slavery in its Whistler murals, nowadays deemed ‘unequivocally… offensive’.)

“An exceptional list of wine with so many to choose by the glass that it’s always possible to try something a bit different” is the key selling point of this popular modern wine bar chain. Its culinary attractions are less reliable – the food can be “surprisingly good” but is too often “essentially average”; service can be “accommodating” or “rushed”; and the ambience can be “better if you can sit outside”. But its “excellent value” drinking and “lively” style carry the day. In particular, the “conveniently placed” King’s Cross branch has a “great location, which makes it a winner”. Top Tip – “creditable set lunch at a pretty restrained price”.

“Well-located in the power station”, the new Battersea branch of Gordon Ramsay’s upscale brasserie chain has inspired more interest than some others in this expanding group (which also now incorporates the Limehouse riverside pub GR has owned for ages, fka The Narrow). With their generously spaced, comfortable and quite stylish interiors they can be a versatile choice – especially on business – but their resolutely MOR standards mean they hardly set the pulse racing.

2021 Review: “Surprisingly good food and charming service” make it worth remembering this historic hostelry (refurbed in recent times), near the Royal Courts of Justice. You can eat in the ground floor bar, or in the upstairs ‘Pig and Goose’ restaurant.

Robbie Lorraine has upped sticks from Brixton with his Del Boy-inspired pop-up – a witty, multi-course trip back in time to the cuisine of the 80s and 90s (duck-liver paté, prawn cocktail…). This new home is part of a Grade II listed pub just off the Strand: not to be confused with Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on Fleet Street, which is about ten minutes’ stroll away (although both claim Dickens as a former patron). No survey feedback as yet – reports please!

The “unforgettable setting” of this pub and restaurant adjoining Shakespeare’s Globe theatre, “with a lovely view over the river” to St Paul’s, provides much of the draw, although its food and service are (just about) up to scratch too. The wide range of menus makes it a “flexible option”, providing afternoon teas, brunches, drinks and meals before and after performances.

2021 Review: “Escape the feel of the City for very reasonable home cooked-food” in the ancient crypt of Bow Bells church. “There are no better dining establishments in the Square Mile: affordable, great service, good food with delicious daily changing salads” including “excellent veggie and vegan options”. Depending on when you go, it’s either a “quiet” space or quite a “noisy” one.

2021 Review: “A firm favourite for breakfast and brunch in Southwark” – this café-style fixture a short stroll from Tate Modern serves “a great menu to suit all tastes”, and fans say it’s “unbeatable”.

2023 Review: “This low-key wine bar is an absolute gem”, “hiding” in the new waterside Westin Hotel, “with a huge window looking across the Thames” to Tate Modern and Shakespeare’s Globe theatre (“spending the evening watching the river drift by with a glass in hand is a really great way to end a tough week”). The interior has a contemporary Scandi look and the menu is put together by Jorge Colazo, ex-head chef at Aquavit. Feedback is too limited for a rating, but initial reports are upbeat, talking of “interesting wine and imaginative small plates”.

2023 Review: “Imaginative Caribbean fine dining” is an unlikely find at any time – particularly considering the bland location of Anguilla-born Kerth Gumbs’s Bankside newcomer, which opened in early 2022 amidst the anonymous glass-fronted offices behind Tate Modern. The Evening Standard’s Jimi Famu thought his east Caribbean-inspired tasting menu to be “dumbfoundingly good… laser-honed… top end” cuisine, while one early reporter questions “is this a potential Michelin star at some stage”. Definitely “worth trying”.

Johnnie Crowe, Luke Wasserman and Toby Neill – “the team from Nest and Fenn – have brought their A-game” to this “beautiful” Smithfield yearling, which opened in September 2022. “No expense can have been spared in the design and fit-out of this wonderful space, atmospherically situated with a floodlit view of St-Bartholomew-the-Great through the massive windows”. The “ambitious menu focuses on British ingredients” and each “adventurous” course is “cleverly delivered” and “with marvellous, personal service”. “It’s the finest of fine dining with some original and exceptional tastes from a fixed multi-course tasting menu”.