Blackfriars, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

A “great concept, expertly delivered” – the two headline dishes are served up in posh, comfortable diner style at this nine-strong London group (with another dozen branches around the world). As a gimmick it doesn’t generate the buzz it once did, but both of the main dishes receive a good rep in feedback, in particular the “excellent and good-sized lobster” (and “for lobster it’s not that expensive”).

“This beautiful space by the river” – the stylish dining room of a South Bank hotel, designed by Tom Dixon – has “a wonderful view if you get a table by the window” and “plenty of space between the tables, so conversation is easy”. Standards in other respects, though, have been up-and-down over many years.

Swish rooftop Iberian seafood specialist on the 14th floor of a modern Southwark hotel. It remains solidly rated for its luxe seafood – including nine varieties of oyster, alongside lobster and caviar – with scores that stack up respectably against fashionable restaurants with a view. Pick carefully, and you could make an affordable meal here, but the more luxurious options are very punchily priced.

“‘Unchanged by time’ defines Sweetings” – in a quiet way, “one of London’s iconic restaurants”, although its clientele is almost exclusively made up of City brokers who have sustained it on its current site by Mansion House tube since the 1920s (it was founded elsewhere in the 1830s). “Unchanged service (efficient and friendly); unchanged team (some of whom – like the loyal customer base – are unchanged from the last century); unchanged atmosphere in the last 50 years” at least. Arrive by noon if you want to beat the traders to a seat at the small counter or sit in the dining room. “Superb fish” is “cooked simply and well in the English grilled style”. “Kick off with the modestly priced pint of Black Velvet served in a pewter tankard. Try a half-dozen really fresh oysters with a lovely red onion and red vinegar dressing (you can almost hear the sea!). Follow with the fried plaice, homemade tartar sauce and new potatoes in butter”. “Perfect”. “It’s not cheap” but “thank goodness it’s still there”.