Bloomsbury, French Restaurant Guide

“Really nice, and often outstanding dishes” are acclaimed by most reports on this former greasy spoon in Bloomsbury from ex-Rochelle Canteen chef Anna Tobias and the 40 Maltby Street team: and they say the simple, modern bistro dishes are backed up by a “very fair wine list” with a “good selection of natural wines”. (A more sceptical, minority view is that “although the place hits the nerve of the Zeitgeist – with food suggesting honesty and simplicity, complete with an air of sophistication – its success is a pricey London phenomenon possibly explained by the decline in home cooking”).

2021 Review: “Images redolent of ‘Le Gai Paris’ (the naked bottoms went perfectly with my slow roasted pork belly!)” grace the muralled walls of this “friendly and efficient” Gallic corner bistro, near the British Museum: “a reliable and enjoyable choice”, serving affordable classic French dishes.

2021 Review: “Like an everyday restaurant in a minor French town”, this “very busy” Bloomsbury bar/bistro is a “noisy but great fun” neighbourhood amenity: “some dishes are more successful than others” but most are délicieux.

“Brilliantly-executed-but-unfussy food paired with exceptional-and-well-priced wines” is winning ever-higher acclaim for master-sommelier Mathieu Germond’s low-key Fitzrovian… and people already thought it was pretty cracking to start off with. Founded in 2017 after Mathieu quit Pied a Terre, it’s named for the village in the Loire Valley where his grandparents ran a farm and “for the true Francophile, it’s a real find”. “Mathieu is the don when it comes to affordable vintages: he will often recommend a cheaper bottle than a ‘known’ producer: the mark of a great somm’”; and service generally is exceptional: “delightful, knowledgeable and gracious”, which contributes to the “delightfully buzzy” atmosphere. Chef George Farrugia (installed in 2021) is “cooking up a storm” at present, and numerous dishes are enthusiastically mentioned in reports: “the ‘Sole Fritter’ snack is probably the finest two-bite snack ever”; “the duck meatball starter which sounds a bit ordinary, is unbelievable”; “the Muscat broth will almost have you licking the bowl”. “Ask Mathiew to choose a glass to go with your choices: you’ll appreciate the incredible knowledge as you get a description of each one with terroir, flavours and why it matches your food. You learn so much… and get fabulous glasses of wine!”

“Lovely combinations of flavours are expertly executed” at Jun Tanaka’s inviting and “buzzy” Fitzrovia restaurant, where his cuisine is consistently praised by a big fan club as “really fresh and seasonal, and very satisfying”. And, especially given the high quality, a visit “doesn’t break the bank” either. Top Tip – “the incredible value set lunch is a joy for a Michelin star restaurant – please go!”

Fabio Lauro and his family – the new owners since 2022 – still have work to do in reinjecting life into this “very French” and “old-fashioned bistro”, near Covent Garden, which started small after WWII and has grown into various neighbouring buildings over many years. Fans still applaud its “Gallic bistro staples served in a cosy romantic space” and claim it has “perked up on the last couple of visits” (having been in decline up to the prior owner’s retirement). But while reports of “disappointing” or “less-than-mediocre” meals are in a minority, they remain too commonplace and its ratings in our annual diners’ poll remain well off their past best – “such a pity, the place still has potential”.

“A Soho favourite for decades” – this Gallic landmark (est. 1927 but ultimately dating back to 1896 and London’s oldest French restaurant) is “a real treat” and the epitome of a classic Theatreland haunt. (It’s named for the snail farm that once inhabited its cellar!). In living memory, it has had quite fancy culinary associations. Nowadays, though – while the kitchen is still accomplished – this “sophisticated” dining room presents modern French cuisine that’s less ambitious than a few years ago, all in an “un-rushed” fashion that’s well-suited to a “romantic” meal. Top Tip – “a great pre-theatre supper”… “we were completely wowed by the service and ambience; the food was standard – paté followed by a steak frites – but the service was at the level of a top-flight restaurant… a great experience that much exceeded expectations”.

“Another delicately balanced triumph from the clever people who bought you Clipstone, the Quality Chop House and Portland” – William Lander & Daniel Morgenthau’s “great addition to the London restaurant scene” in Fitzrovia has instantly become one of the Top-50 most commented-on restaurants in our annual diners’ poll; and is also one of the best. As with its siblings, the whole approach is all quite “restrained” and “grown-up”.“Simply pitch-perfect seasonal French food” from chef Stuart Andrew (“akin to a slightly lighter version of traditional Lyon dishes, beautifully executed for the London/international clientele who might find the original a bit heavy going”) is offered alongside a “strong wine list”, with “enough variety and novelty to keep everyone interested”. “All this is overlaid with superb staff who are casual but on-point, with the cheerful enthusiasm of happy, knowledgeable people serving happy, knowledgeable customers”. There’s the odd query as to whether the room is a little too crowded, but most diners feel it’s a “very classy and clubby space that’s excellent for a romantic dinner, a business meeting, or a night out with friends”. Top Menu Tip – “the snail bon bons are a superb pre-starter – they melt in the mouth”; “excellent duck – perfectly pink and very tender”.

Star chef Tom Sellers is responsible for this “great little bistro near the theatres” – an upscale, Parisian-style space on two floors with marble counters and leather seating, tucked away in Covent Garden and overlooking Neal’s Yard (the “seating upstairs is great for watching the world go by”). “Simple, tasty food” is the watchword, with a good selection of seafood and fish and meat grills to counterpoint the headline event, which is rôtisserie chicken and fries (a whole bird costs £57).