British, Modern Restaurants in Buckhurst Hill
1. Ormer Mayfair by Sofian, Flemings Mayfair Hotel
British, Modern restaurant in Mayfair
7-12 Half Moon Street - W1
“Well worth a visit” – this “sympathetically restored” Mayfair hotel is originally Victorian (from the 1850s), although the wood panelling and square cornices of this basement dining room owe their looks to the 1930s. It continues to perform extremely consistently under chef Sofian Mstefi, who provides a seven-course menu for £122 per person (and there’s also a five-course option for £85 per person served Tuesday-Friday). We received nothing but all-round praise this year, with it winning nominations as both a business and romantic venue; and with many reporters enjoying their best meals of the year here.
2. Bellamy’s
British, Modern restaurant in Mayfair
18-18a Bruton Place - W1
“If it was good enough for Queen Elizabeth II, it’s good enough for the rest of us!” – Gavin Rankin’s “very civilised, old school” brasserie in a cute Mayfair mews has a “lovely old-fashioned vibe” (and was one of the few restaurants in the UK in which the late Queen ever ate out). “Peaceful and very enjoyable”, it’s one of those rare dining rooms where jacket and tie are still the norm (although the dress code is an unwritten one). Staff are “utterly professional” and “predictably discreet”. “Start an evening with cocktails at the bar (next to the restaurant)” and then move next door for “classic French cuisine” that’s “lovely” but won‘t scare the horses. Top Tip – “the counter bar is also a great spot in which to have a posh fish finger sandwich!”
3. Barge East
British, Modern restaurant in Hackney
Sweetwater Mooring, White Post Lane - E9
“A great summer spot with friends”: this 120-year-old barge is permanently moored in Hackney Wick – near the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park – and provides a “fabulous experience on the water that makes for a great fun night out”. One reporter did quibble about the prices, but still said: “I loved our meal here – the concept is brilliant, with the interior of the barge turned into a cheerful dining room, and unusual dishes based on fish and foods grown in a kitchen garden by the mooring”.
4. 108 Brasserie
British, Modern restaurant in Marylebone
108 Marylebone Lane - W1
“They know what they are doing” at this comfortable hotel brasserie, well-located with a covered terrace on Marylebone Lane. Even its harshest critic – who finds the menu “pretty standard if uninteresting” – says that it suits “a functional business lunch”. But most reports are more upbeat – “there’s nothing to ‘frighten the horses’ but what they do, they do well. A place to come and please everyone and be able to have a proper conversation. Hooray!”
5. Frog by Adam Handling
British, Modern restaurant in Covent Garden
35 Southampton Street - WC2E
“The stories behind the dishes are so lovely” at Adam Handling’s Covent Garden HQ, where diners face the open kitchen to enjoy an eight-course menu presented by the chef and his team for £195 per person. “The wow-factor of the beautiful presentation really adds to the overall pleasure of the meal” and “you will seldom see such intricately and delicately plated dishes”. For most diners, “there’s substance to match all the theatrics” too, with the resulting tastes on the plate being “absolutely superb”. But there are also those who – while acknowledging “flashes of brilliance” – still feel that “‘we’re-trying-so-hard’ screams from every dish” to the extent of seeming “pointless” or “pretentious”. “And then there’s the bill…” which even fans concede is “daftly expensive”. The main verdict though? “can’t wait to return!”. Top Tip – corkage free lunchtimes: BYO at no extra cost!
6. Seven Park Place
French restaurant in St James's
7-8 Park Pl - SW1
A “real favourite” of well-heeled foodies, this classy if relatively unsung Mayfair hotel dining room boasts in “William Drabble, the most underrated of chefs – and one of great longevity” after 15 years at the helm. There is an eight-course ‘Menu Gourmand’ (for £125), but also à la carte options (starting in the evening with a two-course meal for £82 – lunchtimes are cheaper).
7. The American Bar, The Stafford
American restaurant in St James's
The Stafford, 16-18 Saint James's Place - SW1A
Ties festooned from the ceiling is the signature look of this veteran St James’s location, which makes a civilised launch-pad for an evening in the West End. With help from Northcote’s Lisa Goodwin-Allen, the menu – well-rated in reports – offers light US-inspired bites (ribs, jambalaya prawns, mac ’n’ cheese).
8. The Melody Restaurant
International restaurant in Hammersmith and Fulham
153 Hammersmith Road - W14
Something of an unexpected find on the Hammersmith Road – part of the Victorian former premises of St Paul’s Boys School were converted into a hotel some years ago and incorporate this smart dining room looking onto a small park. A variety of relatively affordable menus – Sunday Lunch, Afternoon Tea, and, more recently, a steak and whisky pairing – make it a flexible venue, particularly suited to a family occasion.
9. 24 The Oval
British, Modern restaurant in Oval
24 Clapham Road - SW9
In the underprovided area around Oval, it’s well worth discovering this “nice neighbourhood spot near the cricket ground”. Steak is a speciality (it’s a sibling to Clapham’s Knife, see also), but meat doesn’t over-dominate the wide menu, and results remain consistently well-rated. Top Tip – ‘secret’ outdoor garden out back.
10. Boisdale of Canary Wharf
Scottish restaurant in Canary Wharf
Cabot Place - E14
“If you are not planning a return to the office, the largest selection of whisky ever seen” helps round off a business lunch at this Canary Wharf branch of Ranald Macdonald’s Caledonian group. “The restaurant prides itself on good Scottish ingredients… shellfish in season… excellent fillet steak” and “tables are sufficiently spaced for private conversation”. Top Tip – “regular visitors may join a club which gives discounts on wines and they host musical events in the evenings”.
11. Corrigan’s Mayfair
British, Modern restaurant in Mayfair
28 Upper Grosvenor St - W1
“Richard Corrigan’s grown-up Mayfair flagship”, just off Park Lane, is a favourite spot for enjoying top-quality British Isles cuisine, where the emphasis is on the best produce be it ‘furred, foraged, finned or feathered’. Typical feedback applauds dishes such as “brilliant ox cheek” or “a great fish selection prepared with aplomb”… “mouth-watering”. There’s a “great value set menu”, but “beware of straying too far from it, as otherwise racking up a hefty bill is very, very, very easy”.
12. Hans’ Bar & Grill
British, Modern restaurant in Chelsea
164 Pavilion Road - SW1X
A very appealing looking spot, in one of Chelsea’s more chichi little enclaves – this café bar is part of nearby boutique hotel, 100 Cadogan Gardens. It’s not the cheapest venue, and service can lag, but for a breakfast or light shopping lunch it’s praised (albeit in limited feedback) as “a good all-rounder”.
13. Smith's Brasserie
British, Modern restaurant in Ongar
Fyfield Rd - CM5
This Essex institution, founded almost 70 years ago, is still “the best fish restaurant in the area”, offering “consistently great food with even better service”. It’s relatively “formal”, which befits its status as a venue which attracts generations of the county’s notables, from Rod Stewart, Denise Van Outen and Victoria & David Beckham to the TOWIE crowd.
14. Clarke’s
British, Modern restaurant in Kensington
124 Kensington Church Street - W8
“Sally has triumphed in maintaining stands and a smile across the decades” and the “super-civilised institution” she opened in 1984, south of Notting Hill Gate, has shown rare staying power. That “there is always a really warm welcome” from the “effective and nurturing” staff goes down well, as does the way she has “maintained excellence with the finest seasonal produce perfectly cooked” (inspired by Alice Waters of Chez Panisse in California, her friend and mentor since the late 1970s). “Simple but elegant decor” and a strong wine list focused on North America complete a picture which still inspires practically zero criticism.
15. Maddox Tavern
British, Modern restaurant in Westminster
47 Maddox Street - W1S
“These very big premises were once a prestigious tailor’s” – then more recently a branch of the Browns brasserie chain – and are now “a pub-like restaurant in the middle of Mayfair”. Fans are impressed by “its competent realisation of a standard menu” of British classics. But service can be “somewhat patchy” and food can be “fairly average” as a result.
16. The Guildford Arms
British, Modern restaurant in Greenwich
55 Guildford Grove - SE10
“Good all-round” feedback continues to win a thumbs-up for Guy Awford’s Georgian tavern in Greenwich, where much of the menu comes from the robata grill. Summer is the best time to visit to enjoy the fab garden.
17. The Five Fields
British, Modern restaurant in Chelsea
8-9 Blacklands Ter - SW3
“Hidden off the King’s Road” in “an attractive townhouse” in a backstreet near Peter Jones – Taylor Bonnyman’s “romantic” venue is “just lovely in every respect”. Chef Marguerite Keogh’s “exceptionally crafted” modern British cuisine is “incredibly well thought-out: dishes taste sublime and the presentation is a work of art in itself”. “The wine pairings are really interesting” and “Nuno, the sommelier, gave comprehensive explanations of all the wines”: part of a team delivering service that’s “excellent and not cloying”. “It’s under the radar, but one of the best restaurants in town”: “highly recommended”. (It also deserves kudos for its “exceptional sustainability”, with produce sourced from its own one-and-a-half-acre kitchen garden in Sussex).
18. Eat 17
British, Modern restaurant in Walthamstow
28-30 Orford Rd - E17
2021 Review: “In the heart of Walthamstow Village”, this “great neighbourhood spot” – a Spar supermarket with kitchen attached – wins praise for its “quality” cooking (“the 2019 Harden’s description of pub-type grub underplays its standard and originality”). “Very relaxed and welcoming for young children”, the venture’s best-known innovation is bacon jam, which you can buy by the jar in various flavours. Other branches have opened in Hackney and, most recently, Hammersmith (somewhat better-served areas, so these respective branches are somewhat less of a local lifeline).
19. Yardarm
British, Modern restaurant in Leyton
238 Francis Road - E10
2022 Review: Leyton deli and bottle shop that’s a fave rave for anyone living within striking distance (but we also received a very good report on it from a reporter living in SW19!). In autumn 2019, they opened an adjoining café serving snacks and small plates.
20. Darkhorse
British, Modern restaurant in Stratford
16-19 Victory Parade, East Village - E20
“Love this restaurant which we’ve been going to regularly since it opened!” – this large, modern brasserie has established itself over eight years as one of the best bets for a meal in Stratford’s East Village, thanks to its “friendly service” and a selection of dishes majoring in steaks and roasts from the charcoal oven. “First time and the hard surfaces made the restaurant very noisy, but the food is very tasty!”
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