Buckhurst Hill, Indian Restaurant Guide

Nobody is entirely happy about the change of style at this “wonderful curry house” of more than three decades’ standing in Turnpike Lane, following a recent “facelift”, although “if that’s what they had to do to survive the pandemic, then fair enough I suppose – but we really miss the old place”. Some feel it’s now “essentially a large takeaway counter with the restaurant area tucked behind under glaringly bright lights”, while more positive types feel that overall it’s “still recommended for a quick casual eating experience, but not for a relaxed evening out as in the past”.

2023 Review: This Dalston two-year-old from MasterChef: The Professionals 2019 semi-finalist Arbinder Dugal is a “very solid representative of the by-now-not-quite-so-new wave of modern Indian restaurants – probably the best in this part of town”. Named after the owners’ home village in the Punjab, it serves a short menu of tasty north Indian dishes.

“Shame it’s now so out-of-the-way, but well worth a visit” – after 26 years on the fringe of the City, Cyrus & Pervin Todiwala relocated their famous Indian venue to this new unit on the Royal Docks in 2022. It’s a “light and airy setting” (not far from London Excel and City Airport) with bright views over the water and docks. “Cyrus continues to evolve his dishes, for all occasions”, and “the Todiwalas are excellent hosts too”: “staff are so passionate and personal to all who come and dine” on the “wonderful Indian food with a Portuguese twist”.

“You nearly always have to queue for a table – often for at least an hour – but the atmosphere is amazing and the food is worth the wait” at Shamil & Kavi Thakrar’s unbelievably successful chain: again, the most commented-on business in our annual diners’ poll, which has stormed the capital since it first opened in Covent Garden in 2010. Outlets in Canary Wharf and Battersea Power Station opened in late 2024, bringing the total in London to seven, and each branch has its own intriguing character, with the unifying theme being a homage to the Irani cafés of post-war Bombay. “Very much a well-oiled machine, there is little sign of any drop-off in quality as the group expands”, while “for such large places the brilliant service is remarkably friendly and efficient”. Meanwhile, the “deeply flavoursome and satisfying” menu has introduced Londoners to “authentic and delicious dishes that aren’t just another copycat Indian selection”, with such “zingy and exciting flavours”. And morning-time in London will never be the same again, since the advent of their “great Anglo-Indian breakfasts”. All-in-all, “the whole approach is inclusive and exciting”, “it’s always buzzy and fun too”; and “overall and for the price point you can’t go wrong!”. Top Menu Tips: “the black dal is to die for!”; “superb okra fries”; “the roomali roti is sublime”; “the lamb chops are excellent”; “Chicken Ruby is dreamy”. In the mornings, “the unfailing Bacon naan is a thing of poetry”; “chilli cheese toast hits the spot every time”, and “drink the lemon ginger and honey chai”.

2023 Review: This “handy local Indian restaurant” near the Almeida Theatre in Islington is rather smarter than the average curry house, and has a wide choice of fish and seafood dishes in addition to the standard meat and veg range.

“Heaving and occasionally rowdy” Punjabi “institution” in Whitechapel that provides “outstanding food year after year” and is a “must-go” even “in spite of the packed lobby to get in and lines out the door”. “It’s not fine dining, but you get the same tastes and authentic flavours here that you might pay double or triple the price for in the West End” – “amazing food that’s really worth it”. “All the favourites are served at reasonable prices, helped along by the fact that it’s BYO”. “It’s large and looks nicer than it did a few years ago (as it has had a ‘glow-up’ over the years)”. “At busy times, you feel a bit like you’re on the conveyor on the service front”, which can feel “brusque” but can also be “extremely friendly”. Top Menu Tips – “you come for the lamb chops and stay for the spectacular lentils and baby aubergine (or many other) dishes”.

2021 Review: Whitechapel Punjabi BYO that’s a real match for its better-known Pakistani competitors in the East End due to its “grilled meats at bargain prices” and other “fantastic, freshly made dishes” from the sub-continent.

2023 Review: This cute family-run Muswell Hill curry house with a small terrace for outdoor dining prides itself on its Mughal-inspired north Indian cuisine, which goes down well with a local clientele.

“For over 30 years I’ve been turning up here and it always delivers!” – This legendary, ultra-no-frills Pakistani canteen in the East End is “always fun, authentic and consistent” and fans say it provides “the best curry in town… if you are prepared to forgive the service and ambiance”. And “with free BYO, it‘s as cheap as it gets”. Top Menu Tips – renowned for its lamb chops, “tandoori chicken is to die for” and “mango lassi is made with Alphonso mangoes so a much better taste and a much less sweet drink than you find elsewhere”.

“Novel dishes full of spice and intrigue” draw a “buzzy” crowd to this “refreshingly innovative” and hugely successful modern Indian trio: an “elevated street-food experience that’s really good fun”. The “tiny but perfectly formed” Spitalfields original is “still the best”, say fans, but the food also hits the spot at “tapas-style” venues in Soho and Tower Bridge.

This “enjoyable and good-value” family-run operation in an East Finchley shopping parade specialises in the regional cuisine of Hyderabad, and is one of the best bets for a decent cuzza in this part of north London.

2022 Review: East London’s oldest Indian (established 1939 in Whitechapel) briefly found fame in late August 2020, when it was reviewed by Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times. Run by four generations of the same family – and with somewhat antediluvian decor – it’s not the place to uncover the latest in food fads; or as Marina eloquently put it: “it tastes like the past, deliciously”. Reports please!