Cambridge Heath, Italian Restaurant Guide

“Basic in decor and set-up, but given the delicious food and solid buzz, who cares?” – this “busy” Hackney Italian gets its swing from “staff who clearly want to be at work and have a good time”; not to mention, in summer, its superb location on Regent’s Canal complete with heated terrace. The Italian food is also far from an afterthought and can be “fabulous” (“a wild mushroom squid and lardo dish was sweet, mushrooms intense with the seafood playing its part; sardine pasta and pheasant were both excellent – well-cooked, well-balanced, well-seasoned and with great little touches”).

Chef Rafael Cagali’s “casual option” – next door to his high-flying Da Terra in the old Bethnal Green Town Hall – “has rather flown under the radar” since opening two years ago; but it’s a “most underrated restaurant”, whose “fabulous” small plates reflect the founder’s Italian-Brazilian background. There’s also “great music”: it takes its name from bossa nova singer Elis Regina. Top Menu Tip – “Palm Heart and Scamorza pastel – absolute heaven!”