Chigwell, West African Restaurant Guide

“Tasty Nigerian food with a modern twist” has won an enthusiastic following for Emeka and Ifeyinwa Frederick’s West African ‘tapas’ joint in Seven Sisters – a lively, “cheap ’n’ cheerful” choice whose “fame deserves to be spread far and wide”.

“Easily my best and most enjoyable meal of the year” – Aji Akokomi’s groundbreaking Fitzrovia passion project provides an “interesting take on food from different African countries” and is helping to break the glass ceiling for the level of esteem with which African cuisine is held generally. His latest chef – Ayo Adeyemi, appointed in 2022 – has settled into an impressive stride, providing “wonderful combinations” drawn from across West African traditions: “imaginative flavours that challenge without being overly spicy”. It helps that the food is “all served up with a smile” by the superbly “welcoming” staff, who together with the “refined”, sand-walled interior (with art commissioned for the restaurant itself, along with the crockery and cutlery) help create “a top-class experience”. In early 2024, the team finally brought home the Michelin star so long overdue to the restaurant but slightly puzzlingly withheld from former chef, Theo Clench. (See also Akara).

“A fascinating culinary experience” – Adejoké Bakare’s 50-seat Chishuru vn2.0 opened in Fitzrovia in September 2023 and is a follow-up to the Brixton venture where she first made her name by channelling tastes she encountered in her Nigerian childhood into a culinary mashup suited to the capital. The result is “distinctive food that’s boldly spiced and flavoured” and “soooooo tasty” – to the extent it won many reporters’ nominations as their best meal of this year. But while nearly all feedback says it’s “deserving of its good reviews and its Michelin star”, ratings here are not quite off-the-charts; and the slightly left-field award by the tyre men may unhelpfully distort some people’s expectations, especially as the interior itself is no great shakes (“having been to the original, it was lovely to see the ‘grown-up’ version, but the room still has that ‘pop-up’ feeling… and not in a good way. Still, I hope it does well as there aren’t many places like this. I’m sure the Michelin star will help its longevity”).

2022 Review: When it opened in April 2019, this heart-of-Mayfair restaurant aimed for a blend of British Modern cuisine with accents of West Africa, but nowadays a more confident Pan-African narrative is dominant, both in the styling and cooking. No survey reports as yet; online feedback has its ups and downs, but – for anyone interested in African cuisine – this is London’s most poshly located destination.

“If you like Akoko you will like Akara” – Aji Akokomi’s more casual (and much more affordable!) new spin-off to his increasingly famous Fitzrovia HQ occupies a shiny new unit in Borough Yards and opened in October 2023. Like the mothership, it‘s dedicated to putting a “refined” spin on West African culinary traditions. “The akara dumplings [for which it’s named] are a must” and contribute to a menu of dishes which “whilst carrying some West African spice still remain delicate”, (although some of the accompanying sauces are pretty fiery). The tasteful, upbeat interior is “open and airy with good table spacing, and service is very attentive”.

2023 Review: African cuisine has come a long way in London since Calabash – the capital’s first African restaurant in the basement of the former Africa Centre in Covent Garden – opened in 1964. On the site of the new Africa Centre, in a repurposed Southwark office block, this Summer 2022 50-seater is run by Ghanaian-British restaurateur Akwasi Brenya-Mensa. Named after a form of plantain pancake, it aims to reflect the spirit of busy African roadside ‘chop bars’. On the menu: omo tuo nkatenkwan sesame (mashed rice with groundnut, peanut soup); and buttermilk chicken burger topped with shito chilli, citrus yogurt and basil oil.

2023 Review: This July 2022 newcomer on Knightsbridge Green arrived well after our annual diners’ poll had concluded so too late for rating. It’s a debut from 26-year-old Nigerian-born London chef Victor Okunowo, a semi-finalist on BBC MasterChef The Professionals in 2020. The vibrantly decorated West African restaurant has a 22-seat fine-dining room, with more relaxed eating available on the first floor and 16-cover roof terrace.