Chinatown, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“This intimate little counter-dining venue” in an ancient pub that nowadays finds itself part of Chinatown “shows levels of skill and technique to compete with much better-known places that leave you with a far higher bill”. James Goodyear has taken over from Luke Selby (the latter departing to be head chef at Le Manoir), but all reports swoon over “a truly special experience” and a multi-course tasting menu that’s “absolutely exceptional”. “Love the counter-top layout of the restaurant and the chefs are very happy to talk, explaining in detail how things are made (important to me because I am a very keen cook!)”. “It has a buzzy vibe and is a bit of a squeeze (in both space and time), making it a very different formula than nearby Aulis. Having said that, the cooking is consistently delightful, imaginative and bold. The menu feels well thought-through, building and balancing as it progresses”. “File it under ‘one to watch’ as they plan to build out the ambition even further”: from mid-2023 they are opening on Monday nights and also incorporating their wine bar, The Mulwray, and the pub, The Blue Posts, into the overall offering at Evelyn’s Table.

“A go-to place for top USDA steaks” – this unusual space, hewn out of the old circle of the former Hippodrome Theatre, is worth a trip, with food that’s much better than you might expect. It’s great value too (perhaps as a loss leader to get you into the casino?), making it ideal as a pre-theatre option; and on Monday you can BYO wine. NB. Under 25s must have ID.

“The lovely Soho institution above this legendary pub” (where de Gaulle is said to have composed some of his speeches during WWII) is currently “in the very safe hands of Neil Borthwick” (Angela Hartnett’s hubbie). There’s “wizardry afoot” here but “no faff or fancy” – by “doing simple but really excellent things to top produce but not doing much to it” he creates “a tight menu of absolute bangers”, with “big flavours singing out” (“a plate of greens can be as full of oomph as a tartare or a chop”). “Staff are tremendous” and for many reporters this is “a go-to destination in the West End”.

“A quiet oasis on the fringe of messy Soho” – this hotel comes complete with a cute and rather unexpected courtyard and makes a “great setting” for a “comfortable and reasonably priced afternoon tea”. The food at other times is “comforting but not exciting”, although the set menu offers “good value for pre-theatre dining”.

Dating from 1867, this fine Soho landmark should be famous, but has slipped off the restaurant map in recent years: initially due to its indifferent standards; and then due to Soho House’s purchase of the building, and its closure to non-members since 2019. In July 2023, the club once again threw open its doors to the hoi polloi, with a food operation now run by the team behind the Stoke Newington pub The Clarence Tavern. Fingers crossed, this promising partnership helps it recoup some of its old mojo, rather than descending once again into the Theatreland tourist trap mode that’s dogged it since PizzaExpress founder, the late Peter Boizot, sold it on in 2002.

To instant acclaim two years ago, Jack Croft and Will Murray transplanted their renowned Heddon Street residency, known for its “interesting” small plates, to this large (150-cover) site, with open kitchen, chef’s counter and bar, at the southern end of Haymarket. All accounts this year continue to vaunt its cooking and “fun” style, but ratings weakened across the board amidst a general feeling it risks becoming a victim of its own success: “it felt a bit rushed…”; “the food was good, but prices were crazy…” Top Tips – “smoked cod’s head? Yes please!”; and breakfast is now available here both weekends and weekdays, and is highly recommended.

“Pre or post-theatre, very much a favourite over many years” – this elegant seafood bar was added adjacent to the main restaurant fifteen years ago, and its more laid-back style means it’s tailor-made for a luxurious bite and glass of fizz. That said, it’s become “quite pricey” over time, and doesn’t have quite the dazzling golden glow of yesteryear.

This “cool spot” with a “tight menu that changes daily” is “a Soho go-to, even if you get turned away at the door because it’s too damned successful!” Now in its second decade, it was way ahead of the curve with its modern Mediterranean/North African menu and biodynamic wine list (“tried orange and natural wines here before they became popular categories elsewhere”).

Snug Soho bar, whose superior wine list belies its founding by two Master Sommeliers: Gearoid Devaney and Xavier Rousset. To help soak up the vino: well-rated small plates, cheese and charcuterie. Top Tip – head here in the wee hours: it’s open till 3am later in the week.

2021 Review: In the heart of the West End, this decidedly glam yearling scored better in our survey than the mixed rep it received in press reviews. The first UK outpost of a 30-strong international chain hailing from India and the Gulf, its repertoire of tapas-y offerings are very much of the funky, evolved school of Indian cuisine, and reporters salivate over “an amazing choice of inventive dishes” that are “far better than you would expect” in this touristy locale.

Dazzling rooftop views accompany a trip to this landmark chamber overlooking the rooftops of Trafalgar Square towards Parliament. As part of the NPG’s refurb it has been re-designed by design studio Brady Williams and re-opened in early July 2023 with acclaimed chef, Richard Corrigan at the helm. The bar operation has been beefed up and offerings will include a light afternoon tea and chef’s dining counter (plus launch set lunch and pre-theatre menus from £29 per head).

The eclipse of this former icon of Theatreland by the nationwide chain it spawned (and its adjoining club) is continuing, and the volume of feedback it inspired sank significantly this year. A fair amount of glam still remains, but the A-listers are long gone, and standards are “hit and miss nowadays” to the extent that it too often delivers an experience that’s “overpriced, formulaic and mediocre”.

“The warm and welcoming ambience is hard to beat” at this all-day brasserie, from the Soho House group – part of a hotel, which enjoys a “brilliant central location”. The food? “Uncomplicated, nothing special, but very acceptable” (especially for brunch), if “expensive for what you get”. But it’s the “lovely” atmosphere that carries the day here.

This Soho outpost from the Sussex-based Gladwin Brothers was launched in 2019 in the stylish quarters vacated by Arbutus (long RIP). As at the Gladwins’ five other venues across London, feedback was somewhat limited and a little up-and-down this year. A particular plus is the “valiant focus on locally sourced produce” and a “friendly” approach. Negatives include meals that can be “pleasant but unmemorable” and the odd incident of “haphazard” service.

“One of the legends of the London food scene” – the Hart Bros’ ‘Grande Dame of Dean Street’ is some reporters’ “all-time favourite in the capital – especially now the dining room has been enlarged and transformed to feel much comfier”. (At the end of 2022, the Harts reclaimed the space in this “beautiful, historic building” that had been given over to Barrafina for a few years, to return QV back to its former capacity). “Now with the refit, the environment has caught up with Jeremy Lee’s dishes” – “fine British fare using seasonal ingredients” that’s “top cuisine, without feeling too ‘restauranty’” – all delivered in a “convivial atmosphere which takes us back to classic Soho days”. “Superb all round” and “low-key in a good way, so ideal for business”. Top Menu Tip – “that eel sandwich is still a winner”.

A “reliable Soho favourite”, where results from its blackboard menu are “always solidly good and can be excellent” – the same can be said of its handwritten ‘little black book’ of wines. “Small, relaxed and friendly”, it “can become pretty noisy, but that’s part of the fun”.

Anthony Demetre’s “combination of balance, tastes and textures” inspires fans of this “grand hotel dining room” off Trafalgar Square (“a far cry from his original restaurant of this name” in Mayfair). It’s most nominated for a “solid business lunch” although “the tasting menu is lovely” and also wins recommendations for it as a foodie destination in its own right. A setting that’s “classy” to supporters, though, can – to critics – seem “a little soulless”; and service doesn’t always live up to the occasion. Top Tip – “the set lunch and early evening menus offer excellent value”.

“If your date is going badly here, it’s not destined to be” at this “gorgeous”, candle-lit Soho townhouse – one of the capital’s prime destinations “for a tête-a-tête lunch or smoochy dinner”. “All bare wood, nooks, and snugs”, it is “very tightly packed” and down-to-earth and for its legions of fans captures “just what I want from a restaurant. OK, the setting could be more comfy, but it has a superb vibe”, “amenable” and “charming” service, and “British seasonal food with a twist” that’s not aiming for fireworks but which is “always reliable”. Crucially, all this is backed up by “a short wine selection that’s second to none and at absolutely outstanding prices”. Andrew Edmunds himself unexpectedly passed away in September 2022, but the business (now run by his family) “continues to honour his legacy”: “I’ve been coming here since the 90’s and I’m so glad the team have carried on without Andrew – the place goes from strength to strength”.

“If you can’t make it to Cartmel to visit L’Enclume, enjoy Simon Rogan’s innovative cuisine here in London in a strange combination of chef’s table and culinary laboratory: a unique gastronomic and social experience in all respects!”. From May 2023, the star chef’s Soho outpost grew (a little) in size to seat 12 guests (up from the original 8) together with a complete refurb. But fans say “they didn’t need to bother with the decor when the food (from executive head chef Oli Marlow and head chef Charlie Tayler) is this spectacular”; and they hail it as “the top spot in the capital for those who want to focus on what’s on the plate” (for which the ingredients are primarily sourced from ‘Our Farm’ – Simon’s Lake District property). Compared with the culinary pyrotechnics and inventiveness, the “wine list is quite simple by comparison”.