City, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

“‘Unchanged by time’ defines Sweetings” – in a quiet way, “one of London’s iconic restaurants”, although its clientele is almost exclusively made up of City brokers who have sustained it on its current site by Mansion House tube since the 1920s (it was founded elsewhere in the 1830s). “Unchanged service (efficient and friendly); unchanged team (some of whom – like the loyal customer base – are unchanged from the last century); unchanged atmosphere in the last 50 years” at least. Arrive by noon if you want to beat the traders to a seat at the small counter or sit in the dining room. “Superb fish” is “cooked simply and well in the English grilled style”. “Kick off with the modestly priced pint of Black Velvet served in a pewter tankard. Try a half-dozen really fresh oysters with a lovely red onion and red vinegar dressing (you can almost hear the sea!). Follow with the fried plaice, homemade tartar sauce and new potatoes in butter”. “Perfect”. “It’s not cheap” but “thank goodness it’s still there”.

“Well-spaced tables are comfortable to the point of luxury” in this club-like, wood-panelled chamber – the highpoint of the food offerings within Soho House’s gargantuan hotel: the conversion of the opulent former Midland Bank HQ just next to the Bank of England. Its “pricey” caviar, oysters, “top Dover Sole”, wide selection of steaks and Beef Wellington carved from the trolley all provide excellent sustenance for the local power brokers (“I have won more business here than in any other restaurant”).

A “great concept, expertly delivered” – the two headline dishes are served up in posh, comfortable diner style at this nine-strong London group (with another dozen branches around the world). As a gimmick it doesn’t generate the buzz it once did, but both of the main dishes receive a good rep in feedback, in particular the “excellent and good-sized lobster” (and “for lobster it’s not that expensive”).

With “a varied and interesting menu of fish and seafood” – this “light and buzzy” glass-fronted modern fish restaurant satisfies most diners as “a good pitstop amidst the hum of Borough Market” – although there are persistent gripes that it’s “just not imaginative enough for the prices, exploiting the tourist location”. Top Tip – “nice for a team dinner (when the madding crowds have gone)”.

“A very good fish selection with great daily offerings” and “excellent seafood” win very many nominations for these ever-popular fish-and-seafood bistros in Borough Market, Battersea Power Station and South Kensington. All offer a “pleasant experience”, with an appealing “casual” ambience, “friendly” staff and very “reliable” standards. In particular, SW8 has a “terrific location – right by the Power Station and the boat landing! – Step off and step straight inside!”

“Want to impress a client?” – this seventh-floor City rooftop venue from D&D London near Moorgate “is a destination restaurant that’s worth the expense”. “Technically precise and well-thought-out fish dishes” from chef Gary Foulkes “make Angler justify its Michelin star, with the kitchen showing a delicate touch and the confidence to sometimes elevate some humble fish species” as well as more luxurious options. The main drawback is “the very hotel-like vibe of the dining room”, which feels “a bit bland (although this matters less for business lunching and dining”). And for non-suits, “you can’t help but feel the food’s a bit wasted here, especially on the business clientele who don’t seem to be paying it much attention!”

“Amazingly fresh and beautifully cooked fish, plus great chips” is the straightforward offer at this family-run stalwart in the heart of Borough Market, which has plenty of outdoor seating for warmer months. Gripes? “Deserts are a little average”. The family also run La Gamba tapas bar along the river at the Festival Hall.

Swish rooftop Iberian seafood specialist on the 14th floor of a modern Southwark hotel. It remains solidly rated for its luxe seafood – including nine varieties of oyster, alongside lobster and caviar – with scores that stack up respectably against fashionable restaurants with a view. Pick carefully, and you could make an affordable meal here, but the more luxurious options are very punchily priced.

“This beautiful space by the river” – the stylish dining room of a South Bank hotel, designed by Tom Dixon – has “a wonderful view if you get a table by the window” and “plenty of space between the tables, so conversation is easy”. Standards in other respects, though, have been up-and-down over many years.

2022 Review: Italian seafood and wine (available by the glass) is the simple but high-quality format of this November 2019 opening – a bar, restaurant and shop next door to the area’s long-established ‘Pizarro’. Ex-Four Seasons chef Moreno Polverini presides over an offering ranging from a conventional if modernised Italian à la carte to a five-course ‘seafood feast’ for £85. It’s rated on limited early feedback, all of it positive.

“Brilliant on every level” – this family-run Greek-Cypriot chippy in Clerkenwell has provided “great fresh fish at incredible prices” for more than five decades. “The staff are simply divine”, providing “really fun service”, and “the community work the restaurant carries out is unparalleled”.

2022 Review: Hipster haunt, Ace Hotel Shoreditch – and its restaurant Hoi Polloi (RIP) – have gone, but this new Lore Group (Sea Containers et al) opening in autumn 2021 is stepping into its boots and aiming to boost appeal with an expanded rooftop bar and terrace (panoramic views of East London), and a restaurant and wine bar specialising in sustainably sourced seafood. It being EC2, there’s even going to be a take-out hatch (that’s a sign of groovy sophistication these days, apparently…)

“The quality and simplicity of the fish dishes” – “superbly fresh ingredients served in generous portions” – “speak for themselves” at this classic Thames-bank venue in Wapping (sibling to Essex institution Smith’s of Ongar): a “go-to” for its big fan club, where “the lovely views of the Thames and vibe further add to the great experience”. Top Tip – “the set menu is good value, but if nothing takes your fancy then the à la carte is also reasonably priced”.

“You know that you’ll get a decent meal” at these “unpretentious” ‘Fishmongers & Restaurants’ in Covent Garden, Marylebone and off Piccadilly, where you can buy retail from the wet counter or proceed to eat in at the adjoining dining room. “A wide variety of fish and seafood can be cooked to your specification” and “it’s the perfect place for some nice, simple cooking”. Any drawbacks? The food is “good but rather unimaginative”; “ambience is a little lacking; and the service level is not as good as could be”.

Three years on from a relaunch under its original name by Gordon Ramsay (it was formerly Kaspar’s), this elegant chamber with Thames views from the window tables has yet to regain the lustre it enjoyed before the hotel relaunched in the noughties. It’s not devoid of fans, but too often its cooking (of mainly fish and seafood) is critiqued for being “overpriced (and in some cases overcooked or over-sauced)”. Sceptics say Big Sweary’s name above the door is a saving grace – “if it wasn’t a Ramsay restaurant they’d struggle”. Top Tip – a good choice for a posh brek.