Cookham Dean Restaurant Guide

“Wonderful food” that provided some reporters with their best meal of the year has developed a very loyal fan club for Ryan & Liam Simpson-Trotman’s well-established rural venue, in a converted pub. You don’t have to eat from the taster menu – there’s an à la carte option with two courses for £65 per person – but the most ambitious offering runs to eight courses and £120 per person.

“Other restaurants in the vicinity attract more hype – and even have stars – seemingly because they have a ‘TV chef’, but they really aren’t as good and cost much more” than Michael Mcdonald’s high-quality fixture (one of the top-100 most commented-on spots outside London in our annual diners’ poll). Some compare the experience to being “like dining in a back living room” – not all together a surprise as it’s part of a house that was in fact once home to TS Eliot – but the main events here are the “beautiful precise flavours” of the “excellent and reasonably priced” food and “wonderful polite service”.

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On the surprisingly picturesque (for the inner Home Counties) high street, a 16th-century pub where Hugh first kissed Andie in ‘Four Weddings’ – and where starry chef Atul Kochhar now delivers “outstanding” and upscale Indian food. The latter ranges far beyond the usual suspects, with ‘British Indian’ dishes tapping ingredients like Hertfordshire venison and grilled Lake District lamb – and with particularly good value set menus also part of the attraction.

This “thatched-roof, quintessentially English pub” on the Phillimore Estate wins raves for its “outstanding food” (not least a “stunning value” set menu) – perhaps no surprise given that it’s run by David Holliday and Alex Sargeant, ex-of London favourite the Harwood Arms. It’s “great in the summer sitting outside” but “great in the winter” too, courtesy of its “cosy” interior (and “they also have a burger barn if you‘re looking for something more casual”).

“The big ol’ Compleat Angler hotel might be thought a bit dated but I rather love it, right on the bank of the Thames at Marlow”. This “pretty dining room” is right over the water and is “one of Atul Kochhar’s finest” with “excellent customer service” and “delicate and finely cooked dishes”.

“Old-fashioned, but in a top-quality way” – this Thames Valley stalwart enjoys “an outstanding location on the Thames” at Sonning Eye and is “like a step back in time”. Owned and run by the Emmanuel family since 1972, its interior is “comfortable and rather cosy and romantic too”; and you are well looked after (“even though we were the only diners on that particular occasion there was no sense of being rushed”). The odd reporter feels its “solid British menu” (with the speciality of their signature spit-roasted duck) is “due an overhaul”. But that’s a minority view – most of its (silver-haired) fans like it just the way it is. Top Tip – exceptional wine from the list: “it’s a Bible”. (The future direction of the business is slightly unclear. In September 2023, it was put on the market for £12m with Michael Emmanuel announcing: “It’s not easy to say goodbye to a place that has been the heart of our family for so long, but we’re eager to see the next chapter of its storied history unfold”. The asking price subsequently dropped to £8m several months later and as of October 2024 the restaurant’s website reads: “The French Horn has not been sold and is still being run enthusiastically by the Emmanuel family.”)

Julie Griffiths’ “atmospheric gastropub with lovely real ales and log fires” has been a feature of the Chilterns deep in countryside off the M40 south of Oxford for yonks and is, for its many fans, “an amazing institution that just keeps giving”. “Julie and her team look after you very well” and its unchanging attributes include “good if expensive” cooking and “a wonderful selection of wines”. (“A recent house move prompted the alarming thought that the first visit to the Napier was around 40 years ago. Since then we have visited dozens of times, celebrating special occasions and the everyday. What has never changed is the friendly and attentive welcome, the sense of ease settling by the fire in the bar or taking an aperitif in the beautiful garden. The menu always feels reassuring but upon closer inspection reveals constant fine- tuning in response to availability and season. Once installed in the eclectic dining area, the Napier remains an unchanging, unalloyed pleasure”.)

“Lovely as ever and long may it continue” – Giancarlo & Katie Caldesi’s “welcoming” country venue (their flagship is in Marylebone) provides “wonderful Italian cooking”, including “silky-smooth homemade pasta” and “top-quality, tender calf’s liver in white wine”.

“A classic, inspired menu is served in a lovely dining room on Old Amersham’s beautiful high street and supported by a great wine list” at Laurie & Jacqueline Gear’s 16th-century converted cottage. It waited almost 17 years for its Michelin star – having been founded in 2002 and winning the accolade in 2019 – and cynics say it’s “consistently good even after the award!” delivering “fantastic food, year after year”. “Prices are reasonable for the quality with dishes embellished with flair and complemented by the polite and engaged staff”. Many best meals of the last 12 months are reported here, and one reporter thought it “as enjoyable as any restaurant we have tried in the past three or four years”. It’s one of the top-50 most commented-on destinations outside London in our annual diners’ poll.

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