Crewe, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: “Theatrical presentation” is a longstanding feature of the Pear family’s stalwart fixture of four decades’ standing, whose ‘Dinner at 8’ package was an early adopter of the tasting menu format, with a 7-course menu delivered in a single sitting (you arrive at 7.30 pm). Fans say “Covid hasn't affected the consistent high quality of this unique dining venue. And to the famous ‘Dinner at 8’, can be added the growing popularity of their afternoon tea”: “a choice of gentleman’s or lady’s gives a useful mix of sweet and savoury, including the legendary homemade desserts. Ample portions (take-home boxes cheerfully provided), well served and a good range of teas''.

This “atmospheric old pub” in rural Cheshire from the Chester-based Brunning and Price group is a “great” place to drop by for “nice food from a menu with a wide choice”. It’s a handsome red-brick building with plenty of exposed beams, and an attractive canopied garden.

“Almost next to Cholmondeley Castle gardens”, the ‘Chum’ is an “interesting conversion of a village school” (complete with “much educational memorabilia”) into a “quirky but deservedly popular inn” serving an “excellent selection of comforting local food”. It also “prides itself on having 366 gins at the bar” – “their own is excellent”. Top Menu Tip – “the steak-and-kidney pie is stonking, but not for the faint-hearted”.

Stuart Collins racked up a stellar CV (via stints with Gary Rhodes, Michael Caines and Gordon Ramsay) before launching this “very intimate” fine-dining outpost, which landed like a foodie comet in this market town just east of the Welsh frontier in 2017. Still warmed by the mediatic glow of Stuart’s cameo on the Great British Menu, its classically informed cooking (FOH is overseen by wife Frances) revolves around an £85 tasting menu which now plays out over ten courses, rather than nine, making a “favourite difficult to decide” (but what matter when it’s all “simply superb”?).

“Fabulous breakfasts to start the day with excellent omelettes; flavour-packed soups; and great coffee” (“with that rare accompaniment, a glass of iced water”) are all highlights of the “imaginative creations from the open kitchen” at this funkily decorated, brick-walled bar/diner, which is “open all day” – a model of “simplicity with highly efficient service”.

Too little feedback this year for a full review on this intriguing eatery in The Potteries – part of the World of Wedgewood experience – whose high-profile founding chef, local Staffordshire lad Niall Keating, left after three years in May 2024. There is a full-on chef’s table blow-out, but most visitors opt for the relatively affordable posh-brasserie menu (which is the formula price given).