Dartmouth, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Very relaxed but with always interesting food” – this organic and ethical pub-with-rooms won the Sustainable Restaurant Association’s coveted Sustainability Award last year – recognition of the efforts made by the team led by founder Geetie Singh-Watson, a self-styled ethical publican who sold her flat in London to rescue what had been a run-down local boozer. The locally sourced food does not just tick the sustainability box: “the local ingredients are varied and excellent, in intriguing combinations. eg. beetroot and sheep’s curd starter is simple, yet tasty and on a recent visit a cod’s head was on the menu”.

“This reliably consistent beacon of Michelin star excellence handily placed by the yacht club and marina is an absolute stalwart”, having held the accolade since 2006. “Both the kitchen and front of house continue to deliver”, with much of the produce for the restaurant grown on owner Simon Hulstone’s 100-acre Brixham farm. Occupying an elegant Georgian townhouse, it’s relatively informal by the standards of foodie temples, and there’s a sensibly priced à la carte alongside the fancier tasting options.

2023 Review: “Worth a detour. Have been coming since they opened under new ownership in 2019 and it’s only grown in strength despite the pandemic. Absolute gem!” – limited but very enthusiastic feedback on this 14-bedroom hotel on the South West Coast path, with commanding views of the sea and looking over Hope Cove beach (which is yards away). The food is brasserie-style fare (sirloin, red mullet, confit duck…) and good value.