East Molesey, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: A refurbishment/relaunch a few years ago added to the charms of this good all-round boozer, handy pre- or post catching the nags at Sandown Park, whose food was consistently well-rated last year.

A “buzzy” atmosphere and “welcoming service” are the strong suits of this “expanding group”, with 16 branches in London and another handful nearby. While nobody disputes that they’re “lovely to sit in” and offer “value for money”, the “Middle-Eastern-inspired cooking” divides opinion, with some reporters “pleasantly surprised by the tasty food” and others bemoaning “underwhelming” dishes that “sound better than they taste”.

Lovely river views are a big draw to this bar and brasserie, whose glass-walled dining room and (above all) coveted terrace enjoy a “great” setting on the Thames near Teddington Lock. The modern European cooking (more “competent” than it is exciting, perhaps) nods to the location with plenty of fish and shellfish alongside afternoon teas – and, given the superb location and “friendly” staff (they also lay on regular jazz nights) it’s a decidedly useful sort of space.

“Yes, just a local pub – but owned by José Pizarro”, godfather of Spanish cuisine in the UK. Unsurprisingly, the maestro’s first gastroboozer-with-rooms (and first venture outside the Big Smoke) is “mainly tapas” and by most reports it’s “well worth a detour” to the Surrey ‘burbs, with “very good outdoor spaces” a further boon. Top Menu Tip – “especially good pork rib paella”.

2022 Review: Five minutes’ walk from Norbiton station, “a great local” (dating from 1893) which was revivified in recent times by Hippo Inns with a quality food offering including “a fabulous Sunday roast”. “Well worth a visit if in the local area”.

2021 Review: “Thoughtfully refurbished a few years ago, with a splendid dining room at the rear”, plus “better than average pub food”, and an “excellent and well-kept range of beers on the hand pump” – this Georgian boozer (handy for Twickenham) “ticks all the boxes”. “The Canbury Arms in Kingston upon Thames, which reopened in Spring 2019 after a lengthy refurbishment, is now in the same group” (Pearmain Pubs).

“The plant-filled terrace was magical… it could be the wine, but I can’t remember anything standing out foodwise…” – this garden centre café just outside Richmond Park became an unlikely hit under chef Skye Gyngell 20 years ago, and – with its shabby-chic greenhouse setting remains “a lovely place for a meal on a nice day”, even if the food is nowadays undistinguished and “the prices definitely on the high side”. In summer 2024 it finally prevailed after an astonishing 18-year standoff with Richmond council over evening opening, which had threatened its survival as a restaurant.

This “restrained and rather old-school” Richmond gem “was always good but has improved in the last few years” to become a major culinary destination. Kenneth Culhane’s “refined” dishes are “cooked to perfection and beautifully presented” in the “lovely setting” of an Arts & Crafts house next to glorious Richmond Park. “Unobtrusive, efficient and friendly service” and an “interesting selection of wine” make every meal here “a very special experience”.

The “stunning dining room with spectacular views, high above the Thames” at this grand mid-Victorian hotel in Richmond “retains a fine atmosphere”, and it serves “delicious cakes” at afternoon tea. “Many chefs have been through the kitchen here” and where more serious culinary occasions are concerned, verdicts are split: fans say it is “currently undergoing a renaissance”, but others feel (as they have for years) that “the food is only average and the service likewise”.

South African chef, Vanessa Marx has taken the reins (from Steven Edwards) at this attractive dining room – part of a boutique hotel, beautifully situated with a riverside garden in Richmond. Her menu is eclectic with a selection of small and larger plates. But while the reception to it has been a little up-and-down (“exceptional food, let down by a few off-kilter moments…”; “less cohesive than the previous dining experience…”; “expensive…”) its ratings overall are still pretty good all-round.

“The dangers of overextending the brand are writ large at these places” – the sub-sub-brand derivatives from the Theatreland classic, which haven’t taken off like the slightly posher ‘Ivy Brasserie’ spin-offs (perhaps because “they do this better at Côte”). They are not without supporters, who say they have fab locations and “look great” (SW19 is particularly “delightful”); or that although “supper is terribly disappointing, for breakfast they are an absolute joy enhanced by the refined surroundings”. Too often, though, they are dismissed as a “so-so brasserie chain that’s only really aiming for gullible out-of-towners” nowadays.

2022 Review: “A lovely pub on Water Lane leading down to the Thames: now more of a restaurant than a pub” – a smart refit now lends a brasserie vibe to the dining room at this traditional boozer, off Richmond’s picturesque waterfront. The makeover – in late 2019 – was by the Ram Pub Co, which is part of Youngs. Few reports as yet on the rather posh-for-a-pub menu (they serve a selection of oysters, for example), but early feedback says it’s “the food is good, especially the fish”, and for a comfy yet relaxed get-together you could do much worse than a trip here.

Taken over by Simon King and Matt Larcombe, ex-head chef of The Crown at Bray, three years back, this smart red-brick former beer house in the Surrey ‘burbs enjoys a “lovely setting” (“the opening of the beautiful garden last year is a lovely addition for warm summer evenings”). At the pass, “new chef Dan (Lee) has done brilliantly to retain the standards of this ‘fine-dining’ pub”, turning out “outstanding” and modern takes on British pub grub – though a visit can get “pricey” (especially if you avail yourself of the rarer vintages on the wine list).

“Definitely on my list of places to eat” – with its “changing menu and great food”, Sam and Alex Berry’s “noisy” operation is a real favourite with locals, including the business set; the ambitious couple’s mini-empire also includes Surbiton restaurants Cento Uno, No. 97 and The Hideaway, plus gin bar/distillery The Good Life, and (most recently) crowdfunded newbie Bone Idyll Gin School, which launched on Kingston’s riverside in September 2022.