Egham, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: This smart village pub with a garden incorporates a very French dining room, ‘La Cloche’, which serves bistro classics with a nod to the hearty dishes of the southwest, along with a good selection of wine and beer.

There’s no doubting that Heston Blumenthal’s fifteenth-century tavern, a short walk from his Fat Duck flagship, is a “good gastropub”, and the majority of reporters are thrilled by its upscale pub food. But the celeb chef’s exalted reputation (reflected in the prices) means that expectations are sky-high – and though a majority of diners are well satisfied, visits “can be disappointing” (“our battered fish was hard and dry on the inside. Not acceptable at these prices!)”

2023 Review: A couple of excellent reports suggest it’s worth considering this old pub reinvented as a hotel and restaurant (a couple of years ago), between the maze of Hampton Court Palace and Bushy Park. The refit is very attractive and the menu of superior gastropub fare is well-rated.

A “buzzy, colourful atmosphere” reigns supreme at this Surrey offshoot of The Ivy’s flashy brasserie chain, with a beautiful orangerie the best of the seating options. As for the food, “it is perfectly acceptable” but “this place lives off the name for sure” and is “very expensive for what it is” (not that this necessarily deters repeat visitors, who “return for its lovely ambience”).

2022 Review: “Beautifully refurbished” by the current owners (Young’s Brewery), even if not everyone is a fan of its chain-ification, this “great local” – replete with roaring fires, seasonal grub and pleasant garden – is of note for its daily chalkboard specials, but they also do fancy game nights.

“Wonderful décor, a nice mix of cocktails and a lively buzz make this a very good local” that works equally “for a romantic meal or for celebrating a special event”. The new branch in Chiswick generates most of the feedback this year, but Lorraine Angliss (also owner of Annie’s and Little Bird) has run the Richmond original for 15 years.

Katherine (daughter of the late Terry Wogan) and Henry Cripps have long stewarded this top-class, good-value gastroboozer, in a “nice location” near the local golf club; the “seriously good food” makes it “much more than a pub” and “friendly staff” ensure a good welcome.

This attractive eighteenth-century inn is a short stroll from Sheen Gate and a good option following a walk in Richmond Park (especially in summer on the terrace). On the downside, “the cooking can be a bit hit and miss” – it’s “under new management” since Fuller’s fell out with the previous landlord a couple of years back, “so perhaps hasn’t found its stride yet”.

2023 Review: In June 202, Dom Chapman took on this well-known Thames-valley pub (he also owns The Beehive in White Waltham, see also), which had been run by the Bonwick family for the previous nine years. It opened too late for feedback in our annual diners’ poll, but an early report from fooderati insider, Andy Hayler, suggested that Champan will be continuing the high quality of The Beehive and also the Bonwicks’ former regime here: “service… was excellent. Overall, this was a very enjoyable evening, The Crown offering a very appealing menu and generally well-made food. … this is already shaping up to be a charming restaurant, and based on the chef’s track record I expect the food to progress further from this solid start”.

A “top pub garden” is the trump card of this handsome, green-tiled tavern on the Chiswick-Acton border, and it’s backed up by “super-attentive service, great food” and “a lively buzz”. It’s been “consistently good” in its current guise for more than 20 years.

There’s no doubting the “wonderful location, especially in summer” at this outpost of Richard Caring’s brasserie empire, where the “lovely décor” inside is matched by a pretty garden. While caveats remain over the service and food (Caring’s venues are “never knowingly under-priced”), for the majority the overall package is “solidly pleasing” (“even for a non-chain- lover”).

“You feel miles away from London” at this Georgian gastroboozer on the edge of Wimbledon Common, which provides “a great atmosphere in very cosy surroundings”. “There’s a more relaxed vibe than when it originally emerged from its old ‘boozer’ days. The staff are lovely, attentive, fun but not over the top, and the food is perfect”.

This “fantastic” brick-and-timber boozer is a properly historic venue which, at 900 years old, may even be England’s oldest free house; its warren-like rooms have featured on many a TV show (not least ‘Midsomer Murders’, which is namechecked by their chicken pie), and its menu of pleasing classics (burgers, fish pies) plays an admirable supporting role.

“Now under new management”, this “small and friendly” pub – in the picturesque Hammersmith backstreets known as ‘Brackenbury Village’ – has gone from good to better. It has always been a “solid, welcoming local, with good food and well-kept beer” and its new incarnation is just that bit ‘next-level’: with its “well judged and executed seasonal menus and quality wines by the glass” it’s “buzzing”.

This “good local gastropub” offers food that is a step up from most rivals (think soufflés at both ends of the meal), thanks to being “part of the Raymond Blanc outfit” – the former White Brasserie Group, renamed as Heartwood Inns in summer 2023.

On the site of The Crown (RIP) and previously Carvosso's (even longer RIP), Chiswick's former police station has been through a number of incarnations as a would-be pub with none sticking despite it having a characterful site and a brilliant back-door garden. This latest is from JKS Restaurants so hopes are hight. It features a pub floor, reception room, two private dining rooms, a covered outdoor courtyard, and a south-facing front terrace. The menu is inspired by British pub classics, created by Executive Chef John Sparks and Kitchen Table chef James Knappett. Menu highlights include Black Pudding Scotch Egg, Buttermilk Fried Chicken, and Highland Wagyu Hound Dog. The Hound also provides a selection of craft beers, cocktails, and its own label tap wines.