British, Traditional Restaurants in Esher
1. Wiltons
British, Traditional restaurant in St James's
55 Jermyn St - SW1
“A last redoubt of traditional gastronomy” – London’s oldest restaurant in St James’s (est. 1742, but on this site since the 1980s) maintains its “quiet” and “calm” style, with “understated but excellent service” and “booths that make a superb place to do business”. Classic fish dishes – for example “very good Dover sole off the bone” – are the speciality and “ever-reliable”. A less welcome constant are its “eye-watering prices”: “everything was as I hoped it would be… apart from the bill!”
2. Maddox Tavern
British, Modern restaurant in Westminster
47 Maddox Street - W1S
“These very big premises were once a prestigious tailor’s” – then more recently a branch of the Browns brasserie chain – and are now “a pub-like restaurant in the middle of Mayfair”. Fans are impressed by “its competent realisation of a standard menu” of British classics. But service can be “somewhat patchy” and food can be “fairly average” as a result.
3. The Game Bird
British, Traditional restaurant in St James's
16-18 St James’s Place - SW1A
‘Hoof, feather and field’ is the billing given to the meaty options (which are the top choices) at this traditional dining room – a peaceful space, discreetly hidden away in St James’s and overseen from afar by its ‘food director’, star-chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen of The Stafford’s sister property, Northcote (in Lancs). Practically all reports applaud its all-round professional performance and also its “extensive” cellar. Top Tip – a shout out to the “sumptuous and plentiful” afternoon tea served on the “wonderful comfortable sofas” nearby complete with “free refills for the sandwiches!”
4. Cheneston’s Restaurant, The Milestone Hotel
British, Traditional restaurant in Kensington
1 Kensington Ct - W8
Cheneston's, named after the early spelling of Kensington, embodies refined fine dining with a touch of British culinary heritage. Discover a symphony of comfort and creativity orchestrated by Executive Chef Daniel Putz, crafting signature dishes infused with inspiration fro...
5. Capital Hotel, The Restaurant at The Capital
British, Traditional restaurant in Knightsbridge
22-24 Basil Street - SW3
Back in the day, this small chamber – in a luxury five-star near the back of Harrods – was a much stiffer and foodie affair. In recent times the style has become laid-back – bare tables and an all-day menu (much of it from a Josper grill). Feedback is a little up-and-down, but even a reporter who was “a little disappointed” ultimately rated the experience as “good all-round”.
6. Butler’s Restaurant, The Chesterfield Mayfair
British, Traditional restaurant in Mayfair
35 Charles St - W1
Dover sole filleted at the table, “choosing from pick’n’mix from the sweet trolley” and “cocktails in a smoking glass” typify the retro flourishes favoured by the comfy dining room and bar of this traditional Mayfair venue. Feedback isn’t super-plentiful, but all upbeat – “a lovely experience at a reasonable price”.
7. Boisdale of Belgravia
Scottish restaurant in Belgravia
13-15 Eccleston Street - SW1
The Scottish roots of Ranald Macdonald (the eldest son of the 24th chief and captain of Clanranald) help explain the approach of this Belgravian stalwart, which – since 1986 – has majored in a menu of Scottish-sourced beef and burgers (plus lobster and a few other dishes); backed up by an ‘old school’ wine list informed by Ranald’s original career in the wine trade; and topped off with a huge range of whiskies. “Live music helps make it fun” and there’s also a cigar terrace. On the downside, although harsh critiques are absent, its overall rating suggests it is fully priced. (For traditional expense-accounters, though, it’s tailor-made.)
8. Maggie Jones’s
British, Traditional restaurant in Kensington
6 Old Court Pl - W8
This vintage Kensington haunt – named after the pseudonym used by the late Princess Margaret when wining and dining as a commoner – delights its guests with its gorgeous and romantic, rustic decor. Never a foodie fave rave: expect the kind of “delicious” 1970s brasserie-style comfort food which will not distract from a “lovely family meal”, or more intimate tête-à-tête.
9. The Six Restaurant & Bar Hampton Court
British, Traditional restaurant in Richmond upon Thames
2 Lion Gate - KT8
2023 Review: A couple of excellent reports suggest it’s worth considering this old pub reinvented as a hotel and restaurant (a couple of years ago), between the maze of Hampton Court Palace and Bushy Park. The refit is very attractive and the menu of superior gastropub fare is well-rated.
10. The Ivy Cobham Brasserie
British, Traditional restaurant in Cobham
48 High St - KT11
A “buzzy, colourful atmosphere” reigns supreme at this Surrey offshoot of The Ivy’s flashy brasserie chain, with a beautiful orangerie the best of the seating options. As for the food, “it is perfectly acceptable” but “this place lives off the name for sure” and is “very expensive for what it is” (not that this necessarily deters repeat visitors, who “return for its lovely ambience”).
11. The Canbury Arms
British, Traditional restaurant in Kingston upon Thames
49 Canbury Park Road - KT2
2022 Review: “Beautifully refurbished” by the current owners (Young’s Brewery), even if not everyone is a fan of its chain-ification, this “great local” – replete with roaring fires, seasonal grub and pleasant garden – is of note for its daily chalkboard specials, but they also do fancy game nights.
12. Fox & Grapes
British, Traditional restaurant in Wimbledon Village
9 Camp Rd - SW19
“You feel miles away from London” at this Georgian gastroboozer on the edge of Wimbledon Common, which provides “a great atmosphere in very cosy surroundings”. “There’s a more relaxed vibe than when it originally emerged from its old ‘boozer’ days. The staff are lovely, attentive, fun but not over the top, and the food is perfect”.
13. Rock & Rose
Pan-Asian restaurant in Richmond
106-108 Kew Road - TW9
“Wonderful décor, a nice mix of cocktails and a lively buzz make this a very good local” that works equally “for a romantic meal or for celebrating a special event”. The new branch in Chiswick generates most of the feedback this year, but Lorraine Angliss (also owner of Annie’s and Little Bird) has run the Richmond original for 15 years.
14. The Plough
British, Traditional restaurant in East Sheen
42 Christ Church Rd - SW14
This attractive eighteenth-century inn is a short stroll from Sheen Gate and a good option following a walk in Richmond Park (especially in summer on the terrace). On the downside, “the cooking can be a bit hit and miss” – it’s “under new management” since Fuller’s fell out with the previous landlord a couple of years back, “so perhaps hasn’t found its stride yet”.
15. Smoke & Salt
British, Traditional restaurant in Tooting
115 Tooting High St - SW17
Another year of stellar ratings confirms that Remi Williams and Aaron Webster’s former pop-up in Tooting is no flash in the pan, offering “fine food in a bustling, vibrant atmosphere” and “set menus of delicious sharing plates” for which they make clever use of European salting, curing and smoking techniques. They made a name for themselves at Pop Brixton before moving to this permanent site in 2020.
16. The Swan
Mediterranean restaurant in Chiswick
1 Evershed Walk,119 Acton Ln - W4
A “top pub garden” is the trump card of this handsome, green-tiled tavern on the Chiswick-Acton border, and it’s backed up by “super-attentive service, great food” and “a lively buzz”. It’s been “consistently good” in its current guise for more than 20 years.
17. The Andover Arms
International restaurant in Hammersmith
57 Aldensley Rd - W6
“Now under new management”, this “small and friendly” pub – in the picturesque Hammersmith backstreets known as ‘Brackenbury Village’ – has gone from good to better. It has always been a “solid, welcoming local, with good food and well-kept beer” and its new incarnation is just that bit ‘next-level’: with its “well judged and executed seasonal menus and quality wines by the glass” it’s “buzzing”.
18. The Bird in Hand
Pizza restaurant in West Kensington
88 Masbro Road - W14
“Great food and drink, especially pizza” makes it worth remembering this stylish (if sometimes noisy) Olympia pub-conversion, a few minutes’ walk from Brook Green (part of the Oak group).
19. The Cadogan Arms
British, Modern restaurant in Chelsea
298 King’s Road - SW3
“When all that wealth and beauty on the King’s Road become too much”, this “tastefully restored” old pub (built in 1838) is something of an antidote. It wins praise all round for its “attentive” service and “traditional British fare” that’s “on the button and carefully presented”. If there’s any reservation, it’s that it doesn’t dazzle quite as much as its restaurant royalty backing might lead you to hope (the owners of JKS Restaurants, with food overseen by Kitchen Table’s James Knappett). Top Menu Tip – “prawn cocktail and skinny chips with a side order of hot sauce”.
20. The Surprise
British, Traditional restaurant in Chelsea
6 Christchurch Terrace - SW3
“A gem of a place hidden away” in a quiet corner of SW3 close to Chelsea’s ‘Physic Garden’, this “traditional” 1853 pub – a classic watering hole in the area – has been transformed by landlord Jack Greenall (scion of the Lancashire brewing dynasty), and now serves a high standard of “very reasonable value” British dishes, accompanied by “sensibly priced” Bibendum wines. “Service is spot-on, too”.
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