Hyde Park Corner, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“The theatrical elements are sometimes ridiculous, but it‘s very unlikely you would go away unhappy”, according to fans of culinary boffin Heston Blumenthal’s Knightsbridge dining room. Here the unique culinary approach is not his Fat Duck’s ‘molecular gastronomy’, but to re-package recipes researched from Tudor and Georgian cookbooks for the modern era. Most famous is the “sublime meat fruit” (a kind of pâté made to look like a satsuma) but recent menus include the likes of “‘Ragoo of Pigs Ear on Toast’ (c.1727)” and other concoctions. At its best “it’s a great and memorable experience” and one for which Michelin have awarded a coveted two stars. But there’s perennially a huge disconnect between this accolade and its performance in our annual diners’ poll. Even fans concede it’s “hugely expensive”; and year in year out there’s a very significant proportion who are “incredibly disappointed” with the food; or who feel “it’s trading on one or two exceptional dishes at eye-watering prices that don’t match what’s on offer”. By day in particular, this large chamber is a “beautiful” space, with Hyde Park glimpses, particularly from the tables near the windows, while by night the ambience can be more “clinical”, not helped by incidents of “charmless” or “inattentive” service. If Heston were not world famous, the tyre man might have taken away at least one star here a long time ago.

“A wonderful room that’s very light and with well-spaced tables” – this “quintessential” traditional hotel dining room, just around the corner from Buckingham Palace, is well-suited to a special occasion and is popular for business, romance or “a pricey family treat”. Opened in 1910 by Otto Goring, it is part of the only five star hotel in London still to be run by the family who opened it (Jeremy Goring is the current CEO), which has always lent the whole establishment a more personal style than its corporate competitors. Historically, the dining room’s British fare has been more notable for its traditional values than its finesse, and diners in our survey acclaim it as “reliable” if rather “undemanding”: perfect for traditionalists, but less ‘haute’ than its Michelin star might suggest. Breakfast, for example, is a big attraction here, as is one of the “best afternoon teas in the UK”. When it comes to lunch and dinner service, dishes like “first class lobster” excel. The old school service is well-rated but “not what it was” a few years ago, in the opinion of some regular guests. In May 2024 the space reopened, complete with an opulent new interior, care of Russell Sage Studio and a new kitchen for Executive Chef Graham Squire: hopefully all the new kit for the kitchen will mean this year’s food rating is on the cautious side.

2023 Review: “With window views of the back of Buckingham Palace and its comings and goings amidst refills of tea”, this plush lounge can make a good stop-off for an afternoon treat. Feedback is limited, but praises “a lovely stack of sandwiches, pretty cakes and scones with fresh flavours”. More substantial meals are available in the hotel’s very comfortable and traditional dining room (The English Grill), complete with oil paintings and leather banquettes.