Hyde Park Corner, Italian Restaurant Guide

“Theo and his passion for the joys of simple Italian cooking are admirable” and help inject considerable brio into his well-established HQ: a large chamber off the foyer of a big, datedly glamorous five-star on Hyde Park Corner. “He is usually in the kitchen unlike some celebrity chefs, and his enthusiasm for wonderful ingredients shines through” in “skilfully prepared” dishes “with great depth of flavour” (“He also happens to be a very likeable chef who is happy to talk to you after service”). “Judging by their happy demeanour, Theo’s staff also seem to be very happy working here” and “if you want to spend a couple of hours being treated like royalty” this is not a bad place to start. The “cool and modern” room benefits from “lots of space and big tables” (endearing it to business diners) but “being windowless is best at night”; and has been accused of being “a bit soulless”. But they continue to tweak the decor and layout here and “a definite improvement” was noted in some reports (and the ratings) this year. Overall the place attracts little but supportive feedback for its large fan club for whom it’s an overall “favourite”. Top Tip – “if you go for one of the monthly changing regional menus with matching wines, or Sunday lunch, it’s excellent value for money too for a top-class London restaurant”.

“Love this place” – a “lovely, long-established high-end Italian” in Belgravia that still seems fresh after 30 years and remains “perfect for a special occasion”. If it no longer has the cachet of its early years under founding chef Giorgio Locatelli, at least that means it’s “easy to get a table” these days: the interior is tasteful, service professional and the cooking of a very high quality.

“Like a stately ship, Murano glides on” and Angela Hartnett’s “sophisticated but relaxed” Mayfair HQ remains incredibly popular for its un-forced style, particularly for a special “romantic” occasion. Some dishes “put a nice twist on Italian staples” in line with Angela’s heritage, but the cuisine is in fact better characterised as modern European. Chef George Ormond maintains Angela’s “hallmark culinary style” – “deceptively simple preparation puts the emphasis on bringing out the flavour, while avoiding unnecessary faff”; while the “clever menu is designed so you can have any number of courses”. (“The depth of tastes in supposedly simple dishes such as mushroom tagliatelle, as well as the quality of the amuse bouches and breads will just put a smile on your face… less pretentious than some, the focus on excellent ingredients expertly cooked is impressive”). There’s “a lovely ambience” too, which owes more to the “attentive but not overly formal” service than to the “luxurious” furnishings. Despite all these positives, however, this was not a strong year for its ratings in the survey, with marks dragged down by a few uncharacteristic accusations of it being “overrated” and “not worth the cost”.

“The fish never disappoints” at this “true neighbourhood restaurant” from Mauro Sanna’s smart Sardinian group – although it is “a bit on the expensive side”, as might be expected from the Belgravia location. Top Tip – “book a table on the small elevated section at the back, where the acoustics are better: the late Dame Maggie Smith always sat there”.

Few restaurants boast a foodie heritage dating back to the twelfth century, but that’s the claim at this Belgravia outpost of the Antinori family empire: a clan that’s been in the Tuscan wine trade for 26 generations (albeit only running restaurants since 1957 with their first in a Florentine palazzo). All feedback agrees this is a “lovely, elegant Italian in Knightsbridge with excellent preparation of ingredients to a high standard”, “service that’s 10/10” and “a good atmosphere” created by the tastefully appointed room. Just one snag: “All is wonderful… until you get the bill!”

“My favourite new Mayfair spot, bravo!”, acclaims an early fan of this early 2025 newcomer, by the entrance to Mayfair’s Shepherd Market. Chef Achille Pinna showcases the cooking of his native Sardinia in an upmarket setting with a substantial raw bar and plenty of high-quality beef alongside hand-made pasta. In his February 2025 review, The Times’s Giles Coren was complimentary if sniffy about what he saw as a “finance bros” clientele: “jolly nice if you like superexpensive Italian restaurants in Mayfair, which people in Mayfair absolutely do”; while he saw the offering as “the finest ingredients and not too much done to them”.