Hyde Park Corner, Japanese Restaurant Guide

“Despite the dated and frankly sparse interior the food never disappoints” at Nobu Matsuhisa’s first European restaurant, which opened in 1997 overlooking Park Lane and introduced London to the wizardary of Nikkei-fusion Japanese dishes, including black cod. True, it’s no longer the A-list magnet it was back in the notorious days of Boris Becker fathering a child in a broom cupboard here; and it’s also “not as modern or trendy as the Portman Square branch” which outscores it all-round… “but that means you’re still able to get a table” (and some long-term fans actually prefer it’s more low-key style).

A Japanese accent to the pastries adds exoticism (and expense?) to a trip to this swish perch, in the beating bougie heart of Belgravia. It originally opened in the foyer of the stunning-looking Pantechnicon building next door, which – in summer 2024 – rebranded as ‘19 Motcomb Street’ – leading (we understand from the press) to a relocation of the café to the ‘Halkin Arcade’.

Occupying the rooftop space and interior that was once Eldr (RIP), the Pantechnicon building’s main food offering has, since late 2024, been Japanese in style, under the name of the former basement restaurant. No reports as yet on its high-end kappo-style cuisine at ‘jet-set’ prices, but if the past is any guide the prime draw will be the gorgeous, Monaco-comes-to-Motcomb-Street styling of the top-floor terrace.

2022 Review: On a strip of Sloane Street south of Harvey Nicks that has lacked its natural international passing trade in recent times, this outpost of the Moscow-based Sumosan empire serves a luxurious mix of Italian and Japanese dishes, often to the backing of live entertainment. Yet again, the level of expense is the main sticking point (and service can have its off days, too), but it has its fans for a glam night out.

“Top-quality Japanese” food including “wonderfully fresh sushi” is served by “charming staff” at this veteran venue in a quiet Mayfair sidestreet – “recently taken over by second-generation owner-managers”, almost 50 years on from its opening (and claiming to be London’s oldest family run Japanese restaurant). “Good-value lunches” in particular help make it popular with staff from the Japanese Embassy nearby.

“Just superb in every way”, Rainer Becker & Arjun Waney’s high-octane Knightsbridge scene has shown magnificent staying power since it opened in 2002, as well as forming the basis for a chain of permanent and pop-up restaurants across four continents in 27 locations. A pumping bar full of hedgies, oligarchs, Gulf types and other assorted Eurotrash leads onto the sleek dining room where luxurious, modernified Japanese cuisine is “crazy expensive” but on many accounts “never disappoints”.

Offering London’s most expensive menu – this Dorchester Collection two-year-old opened in July 2023 within ‘45 Park Lane’ – the sister hotel just across the road from the revolving doors of the famous Dorchester – and is the first venture outside Asia from Shinji Kanesaka, who holds two Michelin stars for his Tokyo operation. In a room just off Park Lane, you eat at a 9-seat counter hewn (in a single block) from 300-year-old hinoki wood; or at a 4-seat counter in a room which may be taken privately. (For general bookings, you may be seated at either subject to demand on a particular evening). The main event (only event) is a £420 per person, 18-course omakase meal served in a two-hour slot and prepared in the Edomae style by Kanesaka’s protégés who staff the UK operation and overseen by a host trained in the art of geisha. Like so many top Japanese experiences, it’s not something you would seek out for a vibey time, but such (necessarily, quite limited) feedback as we have suggests it lives up to the prices with “an exceptional performance all-round”: not least in delivering finely crafted sushi, immaculately crafted from the best seafood.

2023 Review: Billing itself somewhat misleadingly as an ‘eccentric Japanese izakaya experience’ (which would suggest it’s down-to-earth… which it isn’t), this luxurious space decked with Japanese prints is this Knightsbridge hotel’s new incumbent for the basement space that was previously Bar Boulud (RIP). It is rated on limited feedback to date, but all of it enthusiastic. Top Tip – bargain set lunch menu featuring katsu sandos, plus cocktails.

An “excellent new place” – even if we’re still not sure about the naming of this large, high-ceilinged ‘Sensory Japanese Dining Experience’ (complete with chic roof garden) near Harrods, it scores nothing but positives in our annual diners’ poll. Part of a glossy chain with branches in Ibiza, Riyadh, Dubai and Beirut – the food from the open kitchen (sushi and dishes with rice like salmon teriyaki) is simple but “beautifully presented” and the overall scene very vibey (“an excellent DJ plays a great selection of music at just the right level so you can enjoy the music but still chat without having to shout”). Top Tip – dip your toe in the water with the set lunch for £35 per person.

2023 Review: Esteemed Tokyo steakhouse, Aragawa (est 1967, and actually predated by its Kobe branch) is set to open in late 2022 on the Mayfair site that for over 20 years as Miyama (long RIP) was an exemplar of traditional Japanese cuisine. Tokyo diners may pay over £400 per head for the best cuts… and that’s before you go wild with the list of Premiers Grands Crus on the wine list.