London Belgravia Restaurant Guide

The Scottish roots of Ranald Macdonald (the eldest son of the 24th chief and captain of Clanranald) help explain the approach of this Belgravian stalwart, which – since 1986 – has majored in a menu of Scottish-sourced beef and burgers (plus lobster and a few other dishes); backed up by an ‘old school’ wine list informed by Ranald’s original career in the wine trade; and topped off with a huge range of whiskies. “Live music helps make it fun” and there’s also a cigar terrace. On the downside, although harsh critiques are absent, its overall rating suggests it is fully priced. (For traditional expense-accounters, though, it’s tailor-made.)

“Still as popular with its regular clientele as ever” – this “civilised old-favourite” near Sloane Square “doesn’t change much”, to the relief of its massive, silver-haired following (“you could do away with the menu, as all the customers know exactly what they will order before they arrive. It’ll be the same as they’ve been ordering for the last 25 years!”). The traditional, “comfort-Italian” food is “reliable”, but it’s the “extremely courteous service and wonderful greeting” that really carries the day. Top Menu Tip – “best calves’ liver in London”.

Dark and candle-lit, this “unchanging French” old charmer in Pimlico has “lots of tiny tables squeezed into its intimate nooks”; and yet again comes highly recommended for a steamy date in our annual diners’ poll. The very Gallic service “can be a bit hit ’n’ miss (it helps if they know you)” but typically “makes you feel so cosseted and looked after”. “There aren’t so many restaurants left in Paris serving such traditional bistro fare” (Tarte à l’Oignon, Beef Bourguignon, Crème Brûlée…), all served in “very generous portions” and “with a sensibly priced wine list”. Top Tip – “great terrace for al fresco dining” in summer.

2022 Review: A short walk from Sloane Street, this elegantly panelled Belgravia dining room is part of a luxurious five-star hotel. Perhaps because it’s tucked away in such an expensive ’hood, it doesn’t generate a huge volume of survey feedback, but such as there is says it successfully sets a superior standard of Italian cuisine.

Back in the day, this small chamber – in a luxury five-star near the back of Harrods – was a much stiffer and foodie affair. In recent times the style has become laid-back – bare tables and an all-day menu (much of it from a Josper grill). Feedback is a little up-and-down, but even a reporter who was “a little disappointed” ultimately rated the experience as “good all-round”.

Retired maître d’ Tony and his team created an atmosphere that was “mad, crowded, noisy yet still great fun” at this fifty-year-old Trattoria (est. 1974), long known for providing relatively good value for somewhere not far from the back door of Harrods. In February 2023, it was taken over by The Thesleff Group, whose press release promises ‘a revitalised energy and subtle changes’ to this old groover, which includes a trendified menu. No reports from the old regulars as yet on the new regime so we’ve left it un-rated for the time being.

2022 Review: “Superb dishes, presented wonderfully” win praise for the afternoon tea served in the stylish lounge of this deluxe hotel on Sloane Street (where Oscar Wilde was arrested in 1895 after losing a libel case). Prices, though, are too “aggressive” for some tastes.

A very appealing looking spot, in one of Chelsea’s more chichi little enclaves – this café bar is part of nearby boutique hotel, 100 Cadogan Gardens. It’s not the cheapest venue, and service can lag, but for a breakfast or light shopping lunch it’s praised (albeit in limited feedback) as “a good all-rounder”.

“The personal touch is invaluable” at Giuseppe & Pamela Turi’s “thriving” and “very confident” Italian stalwart, which “has gone from strength to strength since moving from Putney to Pimlico in 2015, and is always full” (often of long-term customers, who “happily make the trek” into the centre of town). “If Italian wine is your thing, this is the place to go”: Giuseppe’s all-Italian list is a “masterpiece in its own right” and even if “a ton of money is sometimes required, the vintages are not expensive for what they are”. To match it: “refined cooking, with classics, specials, and seasonal variations, reflecting the team’s heritage”. It’s a “grown-up” and “very confident experience, without bowing to fashion” – “the Turis be found at the restaurant every day, and there is always a smile to welcome you”. BREAKING NEWS – In August 2023, the Turis announced their retirement, thus rendering the above entry otiose. A month later, just before we went to press, experienced restaurateur, Dominic Ford, and Liberty Wines owner, David Gleave, were announced as the new patrons. Much of the team remains in place, as does the cellar. But – as our read feedback clearly demonstrates – this whole enterprise has always been a supremely personal one and the Turis will be a hard act to follow. We’ve maintained its rating (but taking service down a notch, reflecting the very personal style of the founders).