London Earl's Court Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: Over 1,000 people queued for its opening, but if you’re not Filipino, chances are you won’t ‘get’ this Earl’s Court fast-food diner, which has introduced the capital to the delights of authentic ‘chickenjoy’, yumburger and Jolly Spaghetti (with sweet tomato and hot dog sauce) – “really not special!”

2023 Review: This “deservedly busy” Thai canteen has been an Earl’s Court staple since the late 1990s, serving a cheap and tasty menu which is “all good, from the prawn crackers to som tum”.

“A wonderful display of fresh fish on ice” (“including the biggest scallops with the coral attached”) greets diners arriving at this “unique Italian” in a quiet corner of Kensington, whose “cooking is precise with a light touch”.

“Not so much a gastropub as a restaurant attached to a stylish pub/wine bar” – this upscale local, tucked away off Kensington High Street, has been gradually transformed over 25 years by two generations of the Staples family. The food (which according to the website ‘maintains the sensibility of a British gastropub, combined with techniques and flavours from the 21st century’) is “consistently reliable”, backed up by “excellent service and a very warm welcome”.

“A quirky steampunk theme combined with an emphasis on cocktails and craft beers accompanies very sound modern Indian cooking” at this Earl’s Court venture, whose name pays tribute to the 19th-century Scottish botanists who classified the subcontinent’s plants. “After a few false starts on the site, this restaurant has found its forte under the same ownership as its predecessor Mr Wing (RIP)”.

This well-known pub makes the most of its stunning location in a Regency square in Kensington, with a “lovely terrace at the front for summer evenings” – and (if you can bag one) “the tables at the back are not too noisy even when the place is packed” (ie. always). Apparently it is Piers Morgan’s favourite pub, where he has invited everyone from Meghan Markle to the celeb cronies he entertains at his annual Christmas drinks.

“Feeling like a neighbourhood restaurant but with the Michelin-standard cooking you would expect from Phil Howard (a partner in the management)”: this “charming venue” – “tucked down a side street away from Kensington’s main drag” – remains something of a “hidden star”. But even those who feel it continues to “excel quietly” can feel that the “low-key” setting, though “comfy”, “needs an injection of energy”. Top Tip – “the £34 fixed-price lunch is a steal”.

“One never tires of Il Portico”, say fans of this “lovely local Italian” with “an authentic feel” opposite the Design Museum, which has been run by the Chiavarini family for more than 50 years. “Everything is served with enthusiasm” and “if prices are a bit on the high side, it’s because of the proximity of some very classy residential areas”.

2021 Review: “Go for the wine: there’s a great selection” focused solely on Italy at this Kensington yearling, with bottles lining many of the walls. Even fans can note that the food (pasta, cheese and meat boards, salads) “is not as good”, but it avoids any harsh critiques. Brunch here is also a possibility.

“Terrific posh Levantine food with a twist” is the story of this Kensington High Street three-year-old, whose kitchen is run by former Palomar head chef Tomar Amedi. The menu can seem “confusing” to first-timers (“what’s a starter? a main? a side? did we order enough?”) but the small plates are “interesting and all very tasty”.

A “buzzy” atmosphere and “welcoming service” are the strong suits of this “expanding group”, with 16 branches in London and another handful nearby. While nobody disputes that they’re “lovely to sit in” and offer “value for money”, the “Middle-Eastern-inspired cooking” divides opinion, with some reporters “pleasantly surprised by the tasty food” and others bemoaning “underwhelming” dishes that “sound better than they taste”.

“Where else can you get a range of Japanese, char kway teow, laksa and pad thai, all in one restaurant?” – Ding Chu’s pioneering Pan-Asian canteens (first branch WC1 in Bloomsbury in 1996) continue to put in a consistent if low-key performance. “Busy, crowded and cheap”, “you will find something to your taste”, “service is friendly and efficient” and – for the likes of “a quick meal after going to the cinema” (either in WC1 or W4) – it’s ideal.

One of London’s earlier-wave of gastropubs, this “great local” can still feel like a discovery down a side street near West Brompton tube, despite being increasingly surrounded by the shiny new blocks built in the area. The Med-inspired cuisine remains a cut above. In summer “the terrace is fantastic in the sunshine” and its cosy interior is just the job on a cold day.

2021 Review: “When all you want is an old-school burger”, these US-based arrivals of recent years really “hit the spot” – you can “build your own”, with “tons of accessories”; plus “seriously addictive fries”, “thick milkshakes”, and “more soda flavours than is reasonable”. “The eat-in experience is as depressing as McDonald’s”, though, in fact perhaps more so – “some branches have a strangely gloomy ambience” – but fans feel that “if you don’t mind 1980s-rock, a trip can still be surprisingly fun”.

Close to Earl’s Court station, this modern take on the classic Italian neighbourhood trat’ was launched in March 2024 by the family who founded the Spaghetti House group back in the day (in 1955). It opened too late to generate much in the way of survey feedback, but the press have mostly found in its favour: in April 2024, The Observer’s Jay Rayner didn’t like the steak or pricey wine list, but found the antipasti and pasta lived up to the family’s heritage, and both he and the Mail on Sunday’s Tom Parker Bowles (in May) applaud the pizza: “thin and crispy… [with] an uncommon subtlety to the toppings”.

“Wonderful Thai food that just happens to be vegan” (claiming to offer the only such menu in the UK!) has won a strong fanclub from surrounding postcodes for this “bustling and busy” venue, in the restaurant enclave near Earl’s Court tube. “Meat is not missed” even by carnivores thanks to the “interesting and really tasty selection of dishes”. Top Tip – “they have an attractive outside area making it a good choice in summer”.

“Delicious and authentic Sichuan cooking”, with a focus on biang biang noodles, mini hotpots and dim sum, wins applause for this brightly-lit three-year-old café in Earls Court (with a sibling on Fulham Broadway). “Knowledgeable and helpful service” helps offset the few-frills interior.

Slava Ukraini! “Behind a scruffy streetscape” on the edge of Earls Court (near the Troubadour), this “enjoyable, if cramped and noisy” yearling was created by Ukrainian refugees, led by chef Yurii Kovryzhenko and his partner, Olga Tsybytovska. “It’s a great project – a good cause, with charming service and distinctive cooking”: “a modern and rather lighter interpretation of East European cuisine (e.g. courgette flowers used instead of cabbage leaves for golubtsi: the Ukrainian take on the Polish golabki)”. “Well worth a visit and supporting the Ukrainian refugees who work there”. Top Menu Tip – “deep-flavoured bortsch”.

A short walk south from the Kensington entrance to Holland Park, this corner gastropub was converted a couple of years ago and makes an “atmospheric” choice. The menu is “short and not cheap for what you get”, with a focus on high-quality dishes like rib of beef to share or wild sea bass.