London Farringdon Restaurant Guide

This “buzzy but very noisy” Hispanic quartet (in Marylebone, Farringdon, Victoria and Canary Wharf) offers a “good range of tapas” and “interesting wines by the glass and the bottle”. They still have plenty of admirers as a “reliable” option, even if they “no longer provide the novelty or the high standards they once did”.

Russell Norman’s skillful love letter to Florentine trattorias is “hard to fault for a classic Italian” and, in particular, its “buzzy” (“if noisy” and “crowded”) “glamourous” style is a brilliant escape from the grey streets of Clerkenwell (near Smithfield Market). The “Negronis are lethal” and the “heavy-hitting, rustic fodder” is “simply done, but top quality”. An archetypal ‘Bistecca alla Fiorentina’ (T-bone steak) is a central menu feature, as are lesser-known treats such as “the moreish coccoli (or ‘cuddles’) of deep-fried dough that you stuff with soft cheese and prosciutto”. For all its virtues, though, Russell is a darling of the foodie media, so the place receives regular “hype”, and the only weaker reviews come from those expecting more culinary fireworks, given that “the food is good, but not great”.

“Amazing steak (though the rest of menu is good too)” and terrific views over the City and St Paul’s share top billing at the flagship restaurant at the top of a handsome Grade II-listed former Smithfield market warehouse. It can be “a bit noisy”, but it makes for a “solid dining experience” that’s “always good for business”.

2022 Review: “The duck burger is sublime and the triple-cooked duck-fat chips are moreish” at this offshoot of nearby Club Gascon, which offers a more informal venue for simpler but similar cuisine from SW France. We’ve rated it on the basis of its consistent pre-pandemic performance, as it remains closed as of September 2021 while the team waits for folks to return to their offices around Smithfield.

“An exceptional list of wine with so many to choose by the glass that it’s always possible to try something a bit different” is the key selling point of this popular modern wine bar chain. Its culinary attractions are less reliable – the food can be “surprisingly good” but is too often “essentially average”; service can be “accommodating” or “rushed”; and the ambience can be “better if you can sit outside”. But its “excellent value” drinking and “lively” style carry the day. In particular, the “conveniently placed” King’s Cross branch has a “great location, which makes it a winner”. Top Tip – “creditable set lunch at a pretty restrained price”.

“Still love the place…” – Trevor Gulliver and Fergus Henderson’s icon of British cuisine coined the concept of ‘nose-to-tail dining’ and hasn’t missed a beat since it opened in 1994, in a “stark-but-chic” ex-smokehouse, near Smithfield Market. Known for its “sometimes challenging menu (not least for its selection of offal dishes)”, it continues to deliver “totally brilliant”, “straightforward” dishes (“the cuts may be humble, but the results are of the highest grade”) from “good old-fashioned recipes” in its distinctive “white-walled, down-to-earth” setting, whose ultra-utilitarian style is livened up by “entertaining” service that’s “very kind and personable”. Top Menu Tip – “puddings are to die for (I don’t have a sweet tooth but this is the only restaurant where I ALWAYS have a pudding)”.

2021 Review: “Perfect coffee every time” keeps caffeine fiends crawling back to this small and serious chain. “Baking from Fortitude Bakehouse is a good complement”.

“An oasis of calm just outside the hustle of the City” (north of Smithfield Market): this “beautiful” bar and restaurant (linked – but you’d never know it – to The Clove Club) is increasingly recognised as “one of the top Italians in London”, and a “special” overall experience (“everyone seems so happy just to be there!”). Even fans acknowledge it as being “on the expensive side”, but there are no quibbles about its “elegant and refined” cuisine which “never fails to hit the spot”. And it’s “also a good place for business”. Top Tips – “the Parmesan fries are dreamy”; and “the bar has a great set lunch menu and wonderful booths”.

“You actually feel as though you might be in a brasserie in France” at this City-fringe “favourite”, tucked away in an atmospheric former warehouse, near Smithfield Market (and long predating the trendification of the area). “A great staple for both business and pleasure”, it “has a lovely atmosphere with a real, vibrant buzz which should surely impress” either a client or date. The “pleasing”, solid Gallic fare offers “decent value”, but “it is the overall experience that makes it stand out”.

“Excellent breakfasts… you just need to be patient” – “after all these years, the queue outside is there for a reason” according to fans of this Aussie-inspired chain, owned by celeb chef Bill Granger. There are five nowadays, but it’s still the OG Notting Hill branch – cited by fans as “the best brunch spot in West London!” – which receives the most attention. But whereas all feedback acknowledges the “nice buzz” they create, ratings are capped by reports of food that’s merely “meh”.

2021 Review: Promising initial feedback on this tiny, wine, cheese, charcuterie and tapas yearling in Clerkenwell, whose backers include wine buyer Anthonin Charlier (formerly at Cellar and Club Gascon). French and Spanish flavours are to the fore – “a really happy discovery: both food and wine are great, but the service makes the place”.

“A very special venue”; “hidden behind a nondescript door in Farringdon and accessed by an ancient brass lift, you pass beyond the heavy black curtain to a breathtaking dining room” at this “wonderfully atmospheric” two-year-old. “A historic setting” (mentioned in Dickens’s ‘Oliver Twist’) – its “high ceilings, distressed walls and candle light” come highly recommended for “an illicit date”. Fans of Florence Knight’s “inventive” cuisine say it “holds its own in the space” – is “magical” even – but to others it is “unspectacular” in comparison to the backdrop. “Booking a table requires military advance planning but it’s worth it”.

“Still a top omakase experience in a very relaxed environment” – Toru Takahashi does not exactly need to go out of his way to attract customers to this tiny (7 seat) venue. You can only book online on Monday at 12:00pm onwards. There are no event bookings (max 4 in a party). There’s no concession to vegans or vegetarians. No kids under 12. No Insta (yay!!) – photography and video are not permitted. No scent is to be worn by diners. The full shebang costs £167 per person and takes 3-4 hours, although he also does a shorter 2 hour version early on Saturday evenings for £117 (June 2023 prices). Everyone loves it…

This “impressive French-inspired bistro” is cutely tucked away in a historic yard on the fringe of the City, and thrives on its “simple typically Gallic cooking with good ingredients”, its high-quality wine list, and its “attentive and friendly service”. “It’s not quite what it was” when the adjoining buildings held a posher sister restaurant, but “a reliable mainstay that’s still well worth a visit”, and which is still a go-to business entertaining venue. Top Tip – large and very attractive terrace for the summer months; and “the set menu isn’t bad value either”.

2022 Review: On the fringe of the City, this large tavern is part of the well-known eateries grouped around Bleeding Heart Yard, all under common ownership. A “decent-all-round and handy standby”, it was in particular “a perfect place to meet people for the elusive business meetings that could take place between lockdowns”. Reported by Google as ‘Temporarily closed’ in October 2021, we have rated it on the basis that – as the Square Mile picks up – its return is likely.

“In a great location opposite Smithfield Market”, and “an excellent pre-theatre option near the Barbican” – this “cheap ’n’ cheerful” Italian is “very popular” for its “decent, solid staples” (in particular “good – and huge – pizzas”). “Go hungry.”

2021 Review: “Ranks with the best beef I’ve ever had in London” is typical of the high praise earned by this smart three-year-old. “Mind you, it is right next to Smithfield” – a fact reflected in its straight-to-the-point menu – “and the maître d’ knows just the right wine to wash it down with”. It occupies an architectural gem of a townhouse once home to Sir John Betjeman.