Merchant City, French Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: “Tucked away in a corner of the West End, this top-end venue” is nowadays part of the Hotel du Vin group, but has long been one of the city’s famous culinary destinations, with many top chefs having cut their teeth here in years past. Nowadays formatted in less formal style, this wood-panelled bistro is “full of nooks and crannies to dine in”, and features some “excellent, exemplary cooking”, including a full vegan tasting menu, “and the superb wine list, expertly introduced by the sommelier, is to die for”. But in its new guise, it can be “rather too noisy: perhaps tablecloths might help”.