Merchant City, Italian Restaurant Guide

There’s a “wonderful buzz” around Sugo owner Paul Stevenson’s city-centre pizza joint – also with a West End spin-off; cooked in artisan-built, wood-fired ovens imported from Naples, the pizzas are “exceptional”, while a “limited menu ensures quality” – and is rounded out, in any case, by “always amazing specials” (e.g. pancetta, roasted violet potatoes and fior di latte).

This “buzzy” and “friendly” two-year-old, in a city-centre Scottish baronial landmark Cathedral House, is a “nice addition to Glasgow” by all accounts. It was launched by Anna Parker and chef-husband Dan (ex-of London venues Darby’s and The Dairy), who fell in love with Italian cooking on their honeymoon and have brought “a different kind of Italian” to Anna’s hometown. Expect much “sourcing locally from small suppliers”, as well as a focus on fermenting, preserving and curing.

Occupying an interesting looking Edwardian landmark (built in 1914 as a tram stop), this “classic Italian” wins praise for its “well-cooked Italian food” (pizza, pasta, plus classic Italian staple dishes). “It can be crowded, but is very friendly”. It generated national headlines in 2023 (including in the fun-filled Sun), when owner Marco Giannasi ‘secretly’ sold the business to waiter Alex Matheson and his wife Jen Doherty (although Giannasi and his wife still own the freehold). Top Tip – “good value lunchtime offers”.

“A brash, grand and ambitious new Italian” from owner Guiseppe Marini, which opened to much fanfare in spring 2023 in the expensively revamped city centre premises that were previously a branch of Zizzi. It immediately inspired upbeat reviews in our annual diners’ poll (“just what Glasgow city centre needs”; “excellent pastas and promising-looking meat and fish options”; “really committed to its Italian wine list and to weaning its crowd off premium Champagne”). But in August 2023, the three Cozzolini brothers who used to work for Francesco Mazzei at Sartoria in London’s Mayfair parted ways with the project. Consequently, we’ve left it un-rated for the time being while its culinary direction becomes clearer.