Nine Elms, Italian Restaurant Guide

With its “great terrace” by the Thames and prime position at the Battersea Power Station, this smart modern Italian from D&D London was one of the first openings in the development and certainly looks “elegant and modern”. “Good, but a little expensive” summarises input on the traditional Italian menu, where even cheaper options like the small selection of ‘Pinsa’ (Roman-style pizza) will set you back £20.

Now into its second year, this “neighbourhood restaurant in the most unlikely of places” – a railway arch near Battersea Park – offers a “small and perfect Italianesque/Med menu served by staff who care that you are having a happy time (but without being intrusive)”. Chef Alex Owens learnt her trade at the River Café, while owner Emily Few Brown runs the front of house.

The “buzzy” original in a Victoria hotel occupies “a great space” (modelled on Continental grand cafés); while its younger sibling in the new Battersea art’otel is agreeably modernistic in style. Both can provide “a decent dining experience”, but even fans sometimes noted “service issues” this year, which holds back a more wholehearted recommendation.