North Yorkshire, International Restaurant Guide

“Clever small plate dishes with exciting flavour combinations” have established Neil Bentinck’s city-centre destination as one of York’s most popular in recent years. “Some seats are up at a counter watching the chefs at work, whilst the remainder still have the atmosphere of being in a busy kitchen restaurant”. “Getting a table can sometimes feel like trying to get tickets for Glastonbury, but it is really worth it for amazing British-Japanese fusion food that’s so inventive but not too expensive, with new dishes being created all the time”. “Relaxing, with a buzz of warmth and efficiency”: “It leaves you with a deeper love of humanity and a sense of what a great local can give!”. “Looking forward to the knock through to next door” – planning permission was finally granted in early 2023 and work is due to be complete by the end of the year.

“The original gastropub” – this North Yorks inn has been famous for decades for cuisine that’s unusually accomplished for a pub (featuring, for example, in The Trip, in 2010) and was purchased in 2018 by current owner Michael Wignall, who swept aside its former old-fashioned looks in favour of a stylish, if perhaps “clinical” new interior (“I’ve lost an old friend, but found a bright, young thing!”). All reports agree that he has successfully re-established the place on the UK’s foodie map: the “really interesting and unusual cooking features some unusual pairings and over three hours engaging staff popped up everywhere and are willing to discuss the food, its preparation and its great presentation, all at a very reasonable price”. At dinner, choose from a three-course menu for £110 per person, or there’s a nine-course tasting option for £165 per person.

“If you happen to find yourself in Northallerton, a sure place to go!” – this two-year-old small plates venture focuses on live-fire cooking, and is a good bet in this thinly provided town.