Orford, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Having switched hands from ‘Hotel Inspector’ Ruth Watson to six-strong group ‘The Hotel Folk’, there are “impressively high standards across the board in this charming Suffolk spot”; “fish is a strong point” of the operation, which is also reputed for its “relaxed ambience with a silver demographic”. “The interesting Orford Castle is close by” and can be glimpsed when dining al-fresco.

This unpretentious high street outfit is run by twins Alex (on FOH) and Oliver (kitchen duties) Burnside, who had already racked up a decade-plus of experience working there before taking it over in 2020 – and, in the case of Alex, having met his wife there too. As befits the coastal location, fish and seafood are the focus, but the popular specials board ranges more widely. If you like their style, the duo also oversee cottage-style dining pub The Golden Key, in Snape, and The Plough and Sail on the front at Snape Maltings.

“Unpretentious but consistently good cooking and wonderful service” help sustain this Aldeburgh fixture, which celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, as “the epitome of a reliable, welcoming local restaurant”. Owner Sam Hayes “is a terrific host” and with his “exemplary staff” makes sure that every meal is “a fabulous experience” – and “given the multi-millionaire level” of Aldeburgh prices, it’s also “thoroughly good value”. Top Menu Tip – “excellent fish”.