Ormskirk Restaurant Guide

“At a mere (…cough) £100 for 6 courses, the more wallet-friendly Michelin-starred alternative in Aughton, Solo offers less of an amazing experience, but still a bloody good one” compared with Moor Hall down the road. Chef-patron Tim Allen has a strong CV and opened here in late 2021 in his first ‘so-lo’ venture. “He’s a very accomplished chef – you always get exceptional cooking – and very nice with it” which, via the open kitchen, helps infuse the relatively simple interior with good vibes. Top Menu Tip – “Halibut is far from my favourite fish, but here it’s a shining example of how good it can be when handled by a top chef. Served with a wild garlic crumb, pickled shimeji and a vin jaune foam. A nicely cooked slice of duck breast came with preserved blackberries, a quenelle of pureed, caramelised cauliflower, and an excellent little roulade of hispi cabbage studded with morteau sausage. Great desserts: a blood orange granita, on top of a vanilla panna cotta, with shards of saffron meringue and rather otiose (but excellent) milk ice cream. Then a sort of apple financier-ish cake, topped with a remarkable aerated honey cream/mousse that rounded things off beautifully”.

“Everything about Moor Hall is exceptional: the warmth of the welcome, the quality of the food, the care of the service and the calm dining room” (and that also goes for the prices!) at Mark Birchall’s trailblazing venue, a short drive north of Liverpool. “Set in a Grade II 13th-century manor house, there’s a sense of occasion on arrival and they make use of the cosy lounge as a bar and snack area, with the main restaurant in a light-filled, glazed modern extension with exposed rafters (and even a built-in cheese room where you can choose a platter as an additional course)”. “Like the best-oiled of well-oiled machines, everything passes over you in a show of excellence that’s so well-rehearsed and so well done, it’s almost imperceptible that this isn’t all just an interactive theatrical experience just for you” – with the main event being an eight-course tasting menu at £235 per person: “extraordinarily good food, as is the service, which can also be extremely friendly”. “The downside… the downside is the cost. I wouldn’t – couldn‘t – question the value, but the cost, even with the high prices of eating out” is a sticking point for an increasing proportion of diners, leading to an increasingly disgruntled minority who say “nothing blew me away at a place with such excellent reviews, and I was very surprised”. That’s still a minority feeling though. A more common reaction? – “It’s expensive but, that said, the last time I drove away, several hundred pounds poorer, I felt it was all so perfect that I should start robbing banks, or getting government PPE contracts or something, so that I can go more frequently!”

“This is called Moor Hall’s neighbourhood restaurant and that’s how it feels” – Mark Birchall’s descriptively named operation, complete with brick walls and pitched timber-frame roof, is the more informal option at this famous destination and the Michelin star it holds carries perhaps a hint of distraction in that the dishes – while not exactly ‘everyday’ – are in a much less eye- catching vein than in the main building. “Great food is prepared and served by pleasant and efficient staff and the finishing kitchen/pass is in view of the restaurant – it’s a pleasure to see the calm dedication of the team preparing the food”.

“A real bistro near Birkdale station” – the Vérité family-run operation looks firmly rooted in French traditions, but its menu presents many dishes of modern British and European inspiration (eg. Chicken Schnitzel, Madras Spiced Slaw, Coconut Curry Sauce, Bombay Fries, alongside charcuterie, paté and crème brûlée). Top Tip – “great for a business lunch”.

2024 Review: This “buzzy and consistent” brasserie at a stylish modern hotel and wedding venue offers “excellent service and good food”, with an eclectic menu that stretches from “delicious steaks and fish ’n’ chips” to sushi and other Asian delights, then back to comforting domestic desserts including chocolate mousse and fruit crumble.

“Unbelievable views from this dazzling 34th-floor restaurant” are undeniably the prime attraction at this dramatic (and romantic) eyrie in the city’s ‘West Tower’: the tallest building in the country outside London and Manchester. Over the years, though, the modern British cuisine here has been consistently well rated and although you can push the boat out on a tasting option if you want, the prix-fixe menu is competitively priced. Afternoon tea also gets the thumbs-up.

2022 Review: ‘General Post Office’ now means ‘Global Provisions Outlet’ at this repurposed edifice in the Metquarter – Liverpool's biggest food hall, with 11,000 square feet in which to graze, which opened in summer 2021 and aims to champion independent vendors by offering support and incubation. High-profile initial sign-ups included Nama from Sheffield's JORO – an izakaya-style offering.

2021 Review: Manchester’s tapas smash hit branched out in August 2019, with this large 250-seat opening, in the Exchange Flags development, overlooking Liverpool’s fine town hall (which formerly traded as Steven Gerrard’s ‘The Vincent’). A big and well-stocked bar is also key to the offering.

“A six-course themed taster menu, that changes every six weeks!” is the “playful idea” at Nico Simeone’s national chain, whose two London branches (in Fitzrovia and Canary Wharf) are “great for special occasions, but also affordable for a regular monthly meal out to experience the different cuisines”. At such keen prices, it’s unreasonable to expect perfection and most diners acknowledge this: it’s “a clever, and obviously very popular, concept, albeit one where the experience can seem a bit manufactured”; “although it doesn’t always live up to expectations, when you get the right menu everything clicks into place”; so while inevitably it’s “hit and miss, it’s also great value”, and “for a fun evening it does the job well”.

2024 Review: Native Liverpudlian Andrew Sheridan upped sticks from Brum to relocate ‘8’ to a Victorian building in the city centre (next to the original Cavern Club) in April 2023. Seating is at one of two counters for, appropriately, eight diners; the lighting is low; much of the décor is black or slate-grey; and the level of ambition in the cooking is high, with the aim of delivering ‘an immersive sensory experience’. The eight courses (for £110 per head) are of very diverse inspiration and there’s also a wine pairing option (for £80 per head).

“A really great concept – lots of decent beer and spicy, snack-y Indian food” – is the MO of this casual and vividly decorated city-centre outpost of the small northern group: “more like a canteen than a restaurant”. Don’t expect trad curry and Tiger beer, though – here you’re looking at “vegetarian-only food based on Gujarati cuisine” served alongside local craft beers (including their own). The owners started out in Leeds, but there’s also a Manchester Piccadilly sibling that spawned a brewery a few years back.

2022 Review: “Always busy and buzzing with conversation”, this “reliable upmarket resto in the business district of the city centre” – a link in the glitzy national Italian chain – wins solid marks for its “atmosphere, good-quality produce and cooking”.

“A reliable, slick operation… always busy”: It all started in this “crowded” converted former bank for ex-barrister Nisha Katona, who has taken the Indian street-food formula she pioneered here and created one of the UK’s better small restaurant groups, nowadays with over 25 outlets around the country. The formula? Dishes are “authentically Indian”, “tasty, vibrant and good value”. Top Menu Tip – “love the chat bombs and the Goan fish curry”.

2021 Review: “Italian small plates (this time)” “from the Salt House tapas stable” – win solid ratings for this “friendly, buzzy restaurant” from the Red & Blue team. It’s “great for a larger party”, with “seats at the bar good for dates”; “it’s crowded so you do get to hear your neighbours’ conversations – although in Liverpool that can be theatre”.

Puglia-born chef Maurizio Pellegrini and his Scottish-Italian partner Rosaria Crolla launched this local fixture in 2009 and, all these years later, it’s “still very popular because of the quality of the seafood” (“excellent” oysters and seafood platters, “plus more basic dishes such as seafood risotto and pasta”). There are now two siblings: the Italian Club, and the Italian Club Bakery, both within an easy walk of this venue.

“A spacious, beautiful building” in the Georgian Quarter next to ‘The Phil’ (built in 1888 as a ‘Home for Destitute Children’) hosts Paul Askew’s culinary bastion – still, after ten years in operation, the most high-profile all-rounder in the city in our annual diners’ poll. At heart this is high-quality “traditional” – if contemporized – dining: the ‘Excellence’ menu is a three-course à la carte, although there is also a six-course ‘Tasting’ option at £125 per person: “fabulous food, tremendous service, and a lovely atmosphere”.