Penrith, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Behind a rather nondescript exterior of the local red sandstone”, this converted old bank near the town’s market square “was once the sister restaurant of the remarkable Mrs Millers at Culgaith, which disappeared with the closure of the garden centre which housed it” a few years ago. “It continues where Mrs Millers left off, with an attractive and attractively priced short menu”: “very comforting, hearty dishes, but also delicious” and “beautifully presented”. “We live in Darlington but regularly drive over to Four and Twenty. The food is amazing value! The staff go above and beyond to make us feel welcome and comfortable” (“jugs of iced tap water come unbidden to the table!”).

“Another ex-boozer I remember from adolescence, with patterned carpets and glowering locals now replaced by worshippers of the Michelin divinity” – and by all accounts Ben Queen-Fryer’s gentrified rural gastroboozer (est. 2017) “merits the star” it has held since 2022. “The food never disappoints with quality, quantity and interest” – all the more impressive given that this is a one-man band.

2022 Review: This old-school market-town hotel is a cosseting sort of spot, whether you opt to dine in the “comforting bar area” or the silver-and-ruby-red restaurant, garlanded with two AA rosettes for its “consistently high standard” of “well-presented” food.

“Amazing stay and experience, the dishes were out of this world” – early praise for this January 2023 Lake District newcomer from the high-profile Edinburgh chef. It occupies an Art Deco hotel on the banks of Haweswater Reservoir, now transformed into a self-named fine-dining outfit focusing on local seasonal produce serving some of his signature dishes (shiitake mushrooms on toast; 11-hour slow-roast pork belly; sticky toffee soufflé). There’s also the more informal Brasserie 37, named after the year the hotel was opened. More reports please!