Penryn, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: The “lovely riverside setting” – complete with moorings and showers for passing yachties – is the main attraction at this inn, parts of which are believed to date back 800 years. But the low volume of feedback tells you something given the stunning position – it’s well-rated by reporters but doesn’t have to strive that hard given the place’s other virtues.

Stunningly located on the seafront in St Mawes, this staple of design and travel magazines is the flagship of the Polizzi Collection, run by interiors guru Olga Polizzi and her ‘Hotel Inspector’ daughter Alex (who also oversee Hotel Endsleigh near Tavistock and, most recently, The Star in Alfriston, East Sussex). The food, which again elicited solid marks this year, can be taken in the chic dining room or more casual Dog’s Head bar.

“You could look at the view forever” from this brilliantly situated and cosy ancient pub, right by the Helford estuary and its foot ferry across the river. “While the menu doesn’t vary year on year, they seem to have found a format that works for the varied audience that visits. Food is hearty and tasty, good quality and feels like a safe pair of hands”.

2023 Review: This “hidden gem just outside Truro” from husband-and-wife team Ben & Sam Harmer features “impressive” cooking, “exceptional service” and a “splendid outdoor eating area” for warmer weather. Ben’s classical training took in the kitchens of The Savoy and Le Gavroche – hence “the soufflé is impressive”.

“Amazing ramen” is just one highlight of the “lovely menu” at chef Jude Kereama’s second venue, sister to nearby Kota. There’s plenty of seafood, along with dishes inspired by Jude’s New Zealand and Asian heritage. “Fab views over the harbour just across the road” are another reason to visit.

“A great find while on holiday” – this cool modern bar from Penryn’s Verdant craft brewery serves tapas-style portions of fresh local seafood to accompany its impressive beer selection. There was limited feedback in our survey this year, but all was positive.

An “excellent location overlooking the sea” at Swanpool Beach and nature reserve elevates a trip to this cliffside outfit with a heated outdoor terrace; its sustainably caught seafood elicited regrettably little feedback this year, but there was praise for some “good fresh fish dishes” (the menu swimming between scallops, squid and shellfish platters).

A “bustling” harbourside restaurant with a booth-lined ground-floor dining area and bright upstairs dining room that looks across the bay to the National Trust-run St Anthony Head. The “lovely food” comes at “reasonable prices”, with “good seafood dishes and pizzas as well as brunch”. If you’d rather cart it away to dine al fresco, they also do a swift trade in fish ‘n’ chips.

2022 Review: Perched on top of Porthleven harbour, this hip two-year-old café-kiosk is run by Kelvin Batt, also behind the Porthleven Food Festival (the name is a play on the famous Alabama recording studio where The Rolling Stones laid down tracks). The tiny kitchen turns out “tasty” French bistro-style food such as moules-frites – for the full effect you can opt to eat on a pontoon in the harbour.